We were fortunate to visit TRUSS Restaurant and Bar at the Four Seasons Napa Valley before its official opening. It is located in Calistoga at 400 Silverado Trail. I’m not a big fan of hotel restaurants but what made TRUSS stand out was the executive chef was in residence and cooking in the kitchen. 3 Michelin- starred chef Erik Anderson, formerly of Coi in San Francisco, has taken on an all day menu which is no easy task. Coming from a fine dining establishment, here he is creating menus that are more playful and approachable. He will be introducing a fine dining component down the road, but for now there is a breakfast, lunch and dinner menu served in the main room that seats 250 people which includes two bars. Eventually, the back room with a floor to ceiling glass exhibition window will be reserved for fine dining.
It’s not often I look forward to breakfast at a hotel, but the egg sandwich served in a homemade English style muffin certainly had the wow factor accompanied by a side of hash browns. When you order a fruit plate here the fruit is properly ripened, and tastes how you expect the perfect fruit to taste. Each morning you also get a complimentary pressed mixed juice. The canelé waffles and huevos rancheros were also good. For lunch and dinner they are currently serving an all day kind of menu. Because the chef has a network of farmers, ranchers and artisans around the area, including caviar from Deborah Keane Caviar ( dubbed the ‘Caviar Queen’) the food is of a very high quality and the chef’s presentations are exquisite. He has also got an excellent pastry chefs, Josh Gaulin, formerly of Quince and Michael Mina from the Restaurant at Meadowood. So when you order ice cream, you’re not going to receive a scoop of ordinary ice cream, but instead will receive a striking and creative showstopper. His breakfast pastries are great too, like his cinnamon coffee cake, with candied chestnut butter and homemade jams.
Even though the all day dining menu was available at dinner I found the food to be beautifully crafted, and a delicious dining experience. The Napa Valley crudités with whipped tofu green goddess dip tasted so fresh and appetizing. We had to be talked into the duck ham with espelette peppers and orange marmalade, and we are so thankful we listened. The chicken was perfectly cooked and juicy and such a delectable plate. The ribs were more like meaty chops and the desserts did not disappoint but were unexpectedly a perfect end to our meal. I couldn’t believe the quality during the restaurant’s soft opening and look forward to returning once they are up and running fully. There is a robust and highly curated 250 label wine list with a special focus on the Calistoga region. Plus a combination of classic and new generation winemakers. Celebrating the very best of Napa Valley cuisine, the restaurant overlooks the lush, sweeping views of Calistoga mountains, vineyards, hotel swimming pools and lounging areas.
Plus a combination of classic and new generation winemakers. I couldn’t quite believe the quality during the restaurant’s soft opening and look forward to returning once they are up and running fully.
It was a pleasure to meet and speak with Chef Erik Anderson. He brings his proven expertise to Calistoga. He has created a dynamic and distinctly California inspired menu showcasing the region’s finest produce. Not only was it a coup for the Four Seasons hotels and resorts, it will become a destination dining experience for non hotel guests and locals alike.