Geranium was the first restaurant in Denmark to earn three Michelin stars, achieving this distinction in 2016. I had tried to book it twice in the past, but COVID had other plans. I finally had the opportunity to experience it during my summer trip to Copenhagen in 2026.
It was not easy for our taxi driver to find. Geranium is perched on the eighth floor of Parken Stadium, home of Denmark’s national football team. It is certainly an unusual and unconventional location for one of the world’s most celebrated restaurants. Yet the moment you step inside, the stadium seems to disappear.
The dining room is serene and beautiful, with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the treetops of Fælledparken. The understated Scandinavian decor features blond woods, soft textures and calming neutral tones. With only 13 tables and a small lounge, dining here feels like a special privilege.
The restaurant occupies a much larger space than the dining room suggests, with a laboratory, test kitchen, bakery and several preparation areas. Guests are taken through these spaces during an extensive behind the scenes tour, which provides a fascinating look at the precision and organization required to produce a meal of this calibre.
Geranium was founded in 2007 by Chef Rasmus Kofoed and his longtime business partner, Søren Ledet. It relocated to its current home in 2010 and steadily climbed the ranks of the culinary world.
Kofoed is one of the most accomplished chefs on the planet. He won bronze, silver and finally gold at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or competition, becoming the first chef to achieve all three distinctions. Geranium received its third Michelin star in 2016 and was named the World’s Best Restaurant by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2022.
To say that I highly anticipated visiting Geranium would be an understatement. It had been on my bucket list for years, which made my ultimate reaction all the more disappointing.
After experiencing the multicourse tasting menu, I simply was not that impressed.
Perhaps Geranium has lost some of its edge, or perhaps the world of fine dining has evolved and there are now restaurants offering more original, exciting and emotionally engaging experiences. There was nothing technically wrong with the meal. Everything was beautifully prepared and impeccably executed. It simply did not excite me in the way I had expected.
Several years ago, Kofoed removed meat from the menu, believing that a lighter and more sustainable style of cooking better reflected both his personal direction and his vision for fine dining. This focus on seafood and vegetables was something we encountered at many of the restaurants we visited in Copenhagen. In fact, I can hardly remember being served meat anywhere during the trip.
At Geranium, the menu celebrates pristine seafood and shellfish, biodynamic vegetables, wild herbs and foraged ingredients. The flavours were clean, delicate and pure, but I did not find them particularly bold or memorable. The dishes were pretty, but many lacked the creativity and artistry I had experienced at several of Copenhagen’s other gastronomic restaurants.
Our summer menu began with five appetizers. The first was beautifully presented, with oysters and razor clams served in an edible vessel resembling a razor clam shell. It was clever, delicious and one of my favourite bites of the evening.
I also enjoyed the creamy egg yolk with tarragon, liquid cheese and potatoes. The five opening bites were followed by six savoury servings and five desserts, all presented as part of a carefully choreographed performance.
Geranium’s wine cellar is among Scandinavia’s finest, and its nonalcoholic juice pairing is equally worthy of praise. Unfortunately, the service did not impress me as much as it did at several of the other restaurants we visited. Considering Geranium’s three Michelin stars, I expected a more intuitive level of attention. Our every need was not anticipated, although the staff still offered a relaxed warmth and gracious hospitality.
The crowd at Geranium was probably the dressiest of all the restaurants we visited, although only a handful of men wore jackets. Copenhagen is an extremely casual city, and I was shocked to see one couple arrive in the lounge wearing shorts and open sandals.
It is also an extraordinarily expensive dining destination. Many of our high-end tasting menu experiences approached $1,000 per person and would have cost considerably more if we had been serious wine drinkers. Dining at this level in Copenhagen is an extravagant experience intended for those who truly appreciate ambitious gastronomy.
Geranium had been on my bucket list for years, and I am glad I finally experienced it. However, I do not feel the need to return. It did not deliver the excitement, creativity or emotional connection that I found at several other restaurants, and it was certainly not one of the defining meals of my trip.
Still, the setting is beautiful, the craftsmanship is undeniable and the restaurant’s place in culinary history is well deserved. For those reasons, I will give it a recommended rating.
Recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
09/04/2026
