The legendary China Grill has returned, reopening at the Bal Harbour Shops in Miami after a 14-year absence. For anyone who dined in Miami during the 1990s and early 2000s, this is more than just another restaurant opening. It is the revival of one of the city’s true dining icons.
When China Grill first opened in 1995, it helped redefine the Miami restaurant scene. It became one of South Beach’s hottest tables, attracting celebrities including Madonna, Oprah Winfrey, Ricky Martin and Lenny Kravitz, while introducing diners to a style of eating that was revolutionary at the time. Long before it became commonplace, China Grill popularized the concept of sharing plates that arrived “as ready,” a phrase that has since become part of restaurant vocabulary everywhere.
Restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow has wisely stayed true to the spirit of the original while giving the restaurant a contemporary facelift. The new location occupies the former Le Zoo space at the Bal Harbour Shops and is considerably more intimate than its predecessor, seating 169 guests indoors and on the patio.
The design is dramatic and sophisticated. Black and gold dominate the room, creating a moody, theatrical atmosphere. The restaurant’s Marco Polo-inspired journey through Asia is reflected throughout the space, from the decorative ceiling and tiled floors to the circular menus. Black drapery, black-and-gold marble tables and even the patio continue the elegant aesthetic. It is undeniably beautiful, although also very noisy or, as restaurants prefer to describe it, “energetic.” This is clearly a place designed for groups, lively conversation and sharing dishes with family and friends.
China Grill has always described its cuisine as “world cuisine,” blending Chinese, Japanese and Southeast Asian influences with bold flavours and generous portions. Much of the menu celebrates the dishes that made the original famous. Loyal fans will be happy to see favourites like the legendary lobster pancakes, crispy spinach, lamb spareribs and several of the signature salads make their return, alongside a selection of new offerings.
Perhaps my palate has evolved over the years, but I didn’t find the food quite as memorable as I remembered. One thing certainly hasn’t changed. The cooking remains unapologetically rich, indulgent and, at times, heavily salted.
Unfortunately, the evening got off to an underwhelming start. Our hostess barely acknowledged us, offering neither eye contact nor a welcoming smile. First impressions matter, and this one immediately took away from the excitement of returning to such an iconic restaurant.
The crispy calamari salad suffered from an overly thick batter that overwhelmed the squid, leaving me tasting mostly fried coating rather than seafood. It also lacked the crispness and freshness you expect from something that has just come out of the fryer. The shrimp and mango purses were attractively presented, but I hadn’t expected them to be deep fried, making another already rich dish even heavier.
The crispy rice with branzino was one of the better dishes of the evening. The flavours were enjoyable, although it didn’t taste as though it had been freshly prepared to order. The Peking duck was very good, with crisp skin and tender meat, but at $115 it felt incomplete, especially since it wasn’t accompanied by the soup or rice course traditionally served with Peking duck. It also could have been served considerably hotter.
Dessert brings back one of China Grill’s most beloved classics. The famous Banana in a Box returns exactly as fans remember it. Rich banana pudding, reminiscent of Magnolia Bakery’s version, is encased inside a crisp butter cookie shell that is theatrically smashed tableside before serving. It remains every bit as decadent and nostalgic as ever, and for many guests, worth the visit on its own.
The bar was busy throughout the evening producing an impressive selection of creative cocktails. I particularly enjoyed the Saketini, while the watermelon tequila cocktail was refreshing, balanced and dangerously easy to drink.
China Grill is open seven days a week and also serves lunch and weekend brunch. Judging by the packed dining room when we visited, diners have enthusiastically welcomed its return. Placing the restaurant in Bal Harbour was a brilliant decision, bringing an iconic brand to an affluent neighbourhood with surprisingly few destination restaurants.
While I don’t think the food has quite recaptured the magic I remember from its original heyday, the restaurant has successfully revived the energy, excitement and sense of occasion that made China Grill famous. If the kitchen continues to refine the execution and deliver greater consistency, I have little doubt it will once again earn its place among Miami’s iconic dining destinations. Based on the overwhelming early response, it is already well on its way.
Happy dining,
Shanea
08/02/2026
