Open for just two days before my visit, you would never have guessed that The French Kitchen was brand new. It already operated like a well-oiled machine. The service was polished and effortless, the timing impeccable, and every dish left the kitchen beautifully executed. Perhaps that comes as no surprise when the restaurant is led by legendary Master Chef Didier Leroy, whose career spans more than five decades.
Located at 3054 Dundas Street West in Toronto’s Junction neighbourhood, The French Kitchen occupies a historic building that has been completely transformed inside. The dining room is long and narrow, creating an intimate setting for just 20 fortunate guests. Black-painted floors contrast with exposed brick walls, while stone marble tabletops trimmed in brass add an understated elegance. Mirrors throughout the room make the space feel larger, and the tiny open kitchen and bar sit right in the middle of the restaurant, allowing diners to watch Chef Leroy put the finishing touches on every plate. A larger prep kitchen downstairs handles the groundwork, but all the magic happens in full view of the guests. Green velvet and leather banquettes, gold suede chairs, and soft background music complete the warm and inviting atmosphere.
Chef Leroy recently concluded his tenure at LSL, one of Canada’s most celebrated fine dining restaurants, where a meal could easily cost $700 per person. At The French Kitchen, he has created something equally refined but far more approachable. His four-course seasonal tasting menu is $148 per person, making it the kind of restaurant you can return to regularly rather than saving only for milestone celebrations.
The menu changes constantly with the seasons, and each course offers a choice of dishes. Chef Leroy’s philosophy is simple: respect exceptional ingredients and let them shine.
Our meal began with a delightful amuse-bouche of silky salmon mousse topped with a quail egg, an elegant little bite that immediately set the tone for the evening.
For the first course, guests could choose between a velvety leek and potato vichyssoise or an outstanding Waldorf salad featuring celeriac. Both were beautifully balanced.
The seafood course featured an incredibly fresh scallop ceviche and an unforgettable pickerel mousse served with what may have been the finest beurre blanc sauces ever. One thing became very clear throughout dinner, Chef Leroy is truly a master of sauces. Each one was rich, perfectly balanced and worthy of being enjoyed on its own.
The third course offered three excellent choices: delicate quail stuffed with escargot and served with another magnificent sauce, beautifully seasoned beef tartare, or perfectly cooked lamb loin accompanied by creamy potato dauphinoise.
Dessert continued the high standard with a choice of a carefully curated cheese plate, a wonderful cherry clafoutis topped with airy zabaglione, or comforting rice pudding.
The wine program deserves mention as well. Optional wine pairings are available, and the by-the-glass and bottle selections are thoughtfully chosen. I was impressed with both the breadth and quality of the list.
It was also nice to recognize familiar faces from LSL, including Lucie and Matthew, who have followed Chef Leroy to his new venture. That kind of loyalty speaks volumes about the respect he has earned throughout his career.
I am also told that a hidden back-room speakeasy will soon open, offering guests a place to enjoy a glass of wine and a few small plates. It sounds like a wonderful addition to an already exciting destination.
Toronto has long been missing a truly outstanding French restaurant. The French Kitchen fills that void beautifully and may very well be the city’s finest French dining experience. It has all the ingredients to become one of our regular favourites.
Recommended.
Happy Dining,
Shanea
