After months of travel and living out of town, I finally tried a new spot in my hometown of Toronto: Aera, located at 8 Spadina Avenue, Suite 3800. This atmospheric steakhouse, part of the Oliver and Bonacini Hospitality Group, is nestled within “The Well” (Toronto’s billion-dollar, multi-use development in the city’s south end).
Finding Aera was a challenge due to inadequate signage. Eventually, we located an entrance off Spadina and entered the building’s lobby, where we discovered a sign directing us to the 38th floor. When the elevator doors opened, we were greeted with a breathtaking panoramic view of downtown Toronto and the waterfront.
The restaurant’s entrance is impressive, leading us into a sprawling 5,000-square-foot space with various seating areas. Window seats are highly recommended for the views, as the raised upper level lacks any vistas. The first thing we noticed was the noise level; it was deafening, with a club-like thumping and patrons shouting to be heard—the crowd, primarily 20-40-year-olds, dressed trashy rather than fashionably.
We started with cocktails, but the $25 “Amelia” drink was disappointing- tiny and mediocre. The extensive menu was divided into categories- Starters, Classic Collection, Raw Bar and Caviar, Broiled Seafood, Composed Plates, Steaks, Loins and Chops, and Vegetables and Sides. There was also an entire page of sushi, sashimi, and rolls. This might suggest that the kitchen might struggle to excel in all areas. Executive Chef Binit Paney and Sushi Chef Rhett Sasdulan have much to manage.
We began with the cornbread which while delicious, crumbled into mush when trying to slice it. Bread plates had to be requested to prevent a disaster on the table. My signature spicy scallop roll was neither spicy nor good. The roasted beet and burrata salad, though beautifully presented, lacked flavour or any discernible dressing.
For mains, the seared Branzino with spicy tomato, pine nuts, lime, and fennel sauce was underwhelming and was a petite fillet with a peculiar taste. The steak fared better, with our tenderloin cooked to order. However, the sides were unimpressive: the Delmonico double baked potato casserole was a bland mush, the Roasted Broccoli with vegetable bomba chutney was the only truly spicy dish, the aged Mac and Cheese were average, and the Fries were the best of the bunch.
Dessert was a redeeming factor, with the sticky toffee pudding proving satisfying. Overall, our evening at Aera was disappointing, from the meal to the noise, leaving us with hoarse voices and a lackluster dining experience. But those views…
Happy dining,
Shanea
08/08/2024