Toronto doesn’t see many new restaurant openings that truly excite, but one deserving of celebration is Liliana, at 1198 Queen Street West. This charming spot occupies the former home of one of my longtime favourites, Dandylion, and it’s already clear that Liliana is something special.
The restaurant is a deeply personal project from chef Marvin Palomo, who began his career as a line cook at Dailo alongside David Schwartz of Linny’s. At just 20, he ventured to Piedmont, Italy, where he honed both his culinary and hospitality skills under the mentorship of a chef named Liliana—the restaurant’s namesake.
The space is cozy and intimate, with just 30 seats. Exposed brick walls, floor-to-ceiling front windows, a stone floor, and a small open kitchen give it warmth and character. It looks much the same as it did in its previous incarnations, perhaps now with a few Asian-inspired white lanterns overhead. The small bar remains, and the lighting is still pleasantly dim (perhaps a bit too dim for some of us old-timers).
You may recognize Palomo from his time at Vela, or from his work at one of my all-time favourite restaurants, VEA in Hong Kong. Despite his young age, his résumé is impressive. After Vela closed due to a fire, he decided to open his own place—and we’re lucky he did.
Liliana is a chef-driven restaurant serving Italian food with Asian influences, reflecting Palomo’s own story: born in Manila, raised in Toronto, and inspired by his multicultural roots. The dishes are comforting yet inventive, with subtle twists—like bluefin crudo in dashi vinaigrette, or Aglio e Olio enlivened with chilli crisp and served alongside Puglia burrata. Even dessert has a playful nod to Asia, such as the exceptional panna cotta with yuzu.
My favourite dish of the night was the pappardelle, made with a master mushroom stock that’s cooked and built upon over 35 days—an extraordinary process that yields an unbelievably rich, layered flavour. The pastas here are all handmade, deeply satisfying, and truly memorable. Another highlight was the chicken wing stuffed with risotto, clever and delicious.
There are also seafood, fish, and beef mains, but the pastas are the undeniable stars. Each was cooked to order and served one at a time so we could savour them individually. We ordered three (because how could we not?), and every one was outstanding.
The drink list offers craft cocktails and a thoughtful selection of mostly Italian and French wines. Dessert was no afterthought either—from a chocolate budino to a black sesame and miso caramel millefoglie, and my personal favourite, the vanilla panna cotta with yuja cha jam and calamansi—each one was delightful.
A small tip: if you’re driving, book your table for 7 p.m. or later, as there’s no street parking on Queen until then. Otherwise, Uber or a taxi might be your best bet.
A warm, inspired, and very welcome addition to the Toronto dining scene. Recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
11/27/2025
