Many New York restaurants have ventured into the Miami market, and one such newcomer is Rosemary’s, located at 322 NW 25th Street in Wynwood. Housed in a former shoe warehouse with an adjacent empty lot, owner Carlos Suarez and the Casa Nela Hospitality Group have masterfully transformed the space into a 7,000‑square‑foot venue. Half the space is dedicated to an enchanting outdoor alfresco dining oasis—an urban garden reminiscent of Tuscany, with lush greenery, bougainvillea, and trellised seating areas. While the indoor setting is charming, the outdoor garden is the ideal spot when weather permits, featuring marble tables, light-green benches, and wooden chairs that evoke the look of church pews. As dusk falls and twinkling lights come on, arriving before sunset is advisable since dim lighting can make menus and dishes hard to read.

Modern Italian music sets a relaxed tone and it has a rustic charm with contemporary touches. Chef Craig Grunta, whose resume includes stints at respected spots like Walrus Rodeo, Macchialina, and even the newly launched Mother Wolfe, leads the kitchen. For such impressive credentials, one might expect extraordinary fare; however, I found the dishes to be merely average, with no single dish standing out—even though I hold his previous establishments in high regard.

On a positive note, the menu is reasonably priced by Miami standards and thoughtfully divided into sections: Spuntini (snacks), Antipasti, Verdure, (Salads and Vegetables), Frutti di Mare (fish and seafood), Pasta, Fest (for two), and Secondi (mains). Embracing a farm-to-table concept, any produce not grown in their modest garden is sourced from local Miami farms. The restaurant’s name is a tribute to Carlos Suarez’s mother, Rosemary, who was known for preparing garden-fresh vegetables.

While many have raved about the focaccia, if you’ve experienced Evan Funke’s version at Mother Wolfe, this one may disappoint—it arrived only slightly warm and mediocre. The mixed chopped salad with pickled artichoke and a tart dressing also fell short. The main courses, however, showed some promise. All the kinds of pasta were made in-house; for instance, the labor-intensive orecchiette was a bit chewy yet pleasing when paired with a savory sausage and broccoli rabe sauce, accented by a hint of Fresno chili. A branzino dish, with bartlotti beans with salsa verde, was quite good and well-priced at $32. An Italian-inspired wine list complemented creative cocktails—including a range of spritz and zero-proof options. I especially enjoyed the Rosemary Spritz, crafted with cappelletti, prosecco, rosemary, and a hint of orange peel that, unfortunately, was missing.

The desserts were a redeeming feature. The chocolate torta—a dark chocolate tart served with buttermilk whipped cream, olive oil, and Maldon salt—was outstanding, and the lemon ricotta bombolini paired with Nutella cream was delightfully balanced.

The concept behind the restaurant—a neighborhood Italian dining experience in South Florida that emphasizes sustainability and an inviting atmosphere. However, while the service was friendly, there were notable areas for improvement. Plates should be provided without the need to ask and fresh silverware should be offered between courses; even the dessert service was lacking in these details.

More importantly, the food itself needs to excel further. With so many exceptional Italian restaurants in Miami, you need to stand out. A charming garden alone isn’t enough to entice me to return unless both the culinary execution and service improve.

Happy dining,

Shanea

03/20/2025

 

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