There are very few chefs for whom I would travel, but every so often I make an exception. Recently, I boarded the Brightline, truly one of the most civilized ways to travel in South Florida, and headed to Palm Beach for dinner at Emelina, the newly opened restaurant at 424 Park Place in West Palm Beach. Tucked inside an industrial design plaza in the former Konro space, this intimate culinary destination is led by Chef Osmel Gonzalez, formerly of one of my favorite Miami gems, Entre Nos. When I heard he was at the helm, I knew the trip would be worth it.
For those unfamiliar with Chef Osmel, his story is as compelling as his food. Born and raised in Havana, Cuba, he moved to Miami at 22 and graduated from the Miami Culinary Institute. He began his professional career at Matador Room under Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, before traveling to Spain to train in Michelin-starred kitchens, including Disfrutar in Barcelona and La Botica de Matapozuelos, refining his European technique.
He later moved to California to work at the three Michelin-starred SingleThread, rising to sous chef and deepening his understanding of farm-to-table philosophy. From there, he expanded his global perspective in Japan at the acclaimed Den and L’Effervescence. Returning to Miami, he became chef de cuisine at Ariete in Coconut Grove, where the restaurant earned a Michelin star.
In 2023, he co-founded Entre Nos with Chef Evan Burgess, focusing on Florida farms, ranches, and local seafood. What began as a modest pop-up serving dinner only a few nights a week earned a Michelin star within a year, followed by a Green Star for sustainable and responsible sourcing. I adored that tiny restaurant. The food was imaginative, thoughtful, and executed with remarkable precision. In 2025, Chef Osmel was named a StarChefs Miami Rising Star, recognized as a true game changer in the culinary world. With a résumé like that, you can understand why I made the journey north simply for dinner.
Upon arrival at Emelina, you are warmly welcomed and invited to relax in the courtyard of the design center with a glass of water while the dining room prepares for service. You are then escorted into an intimate, artfully designed space where the focal point is a 12-seat chef’s counter surrounding an open exhibition kitchen. There are also two small tables by the window, but the counter is unquestionably where you want to sit, fully immersed in the choreography of the kitchen.
The room is dark and moody, with a dramatic stone counter, warm wood elements, and rattan chairs that subtly nod to Cuban and Florida heritage. Contemporary Latin artwork, thoughtfully curated ceramics, glassware, and flatware complete the aesthetic. The overall design feels modern and minimalist, yet deeply intentional, mirroring the highly curated 10-course tasting menu.
Chef Osmel’s cuisine is inventive and deeply personal. It is Cuban at its core, yet elevated through global technique and fine-dining precision. His food feels like a reimagining of Cuban cuisine, a vision of what it might have evolved into had there been no communism; it could have embraced broader international techniques and ingredients. The dishes are rooted in memory and South Florida’s harvest, incorporating local seafood and seasonal produce alongside nostalgic flavors such as coconut, plantains, curry, and tamarind.
Because the food is prepared directly in front of you, there is a strong emphasis on storytelling and fostering a sense of connection. Each dish comes with a thoughtful explanation, allowing diners to understand the heritage and intention behind every component. Chef Osmel developed this concept alongside his wife, Chef Camila Salazar, who has shared many of his culinary journeys and now supports the project while at home with their young baby.
Emelina operates under the APM Restaurant Group, founded by Alvaro Perez Miranda, whose Miami portfolio includes Michelin-starred Japanese restaurants Ogawa and Hiyakawa, along with the more casual Midorie. Emelina marks his first venture into upscale Cuban cuisine, and it is an ambitious and exciting addition.
The menu evolves with the seasons, but several dishes stood out. A tempura-fried golden tilefish with refried tomato, a fried egg emulsion, and caviar delivered an extraordinary balance of texture and richness. Creamed yuca with preserved Meyer lemon, fine herbs, crispy yuca, and a briny oyster was unexpected and beautifully composed. A braised oxtail served over Carolina Gold rice in tamarind showcased depth, comfort, and refinement in a single dish. A dedicated pastry chef crafts creative and memorable desserts that close the evening on a high note.
There are no cocktails here, which feels intentional. Instead, the focus is on thoughtful wine pairings built around sustainable, grower-driven producers who emphasize terroir and responsible farming over commercial labels. A small selection is available by the glass, and the bottle list includes carefully chosen producers from France, Italy, Spain, and beyond, all designed to enhance the tasting experience.
Through collaboration with local producers, storytelling through food, and an intimate, immersive format, Emelina is cooking with heart, purpose, and precision. It is redefining what Cuban cuisine can represent on a global stage. I would not be surprised to see a Michelin star in its future.
Enthusiastically recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
02/19/2026
