New York’s vibrant dining scene is constantly buzzing with new openings, making it nearly impossible to keep up. Recently, I managed to squeeze in a weekend brunch at Café Carmellini, located at 250 5th Avenue in the elegant new Fifth Avenue Hotel in NoMad. This stunning restaurant is helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Andrew Carmellini, known for culinary gems like Bar Prima, Lafayette, and Locanda Verde. Impressively, Café Carmellini is the first restaurant to bear his name—and it’s as grand as you’d hope.
The décor is nothing short of opulent, blending old-world elegance with modern sophistication. Set in a Renaissance-style mansion, the space is adorned with rich leathers, velvets, golden-hued chairs, and gleaming wood paneling. Two magnificent trees anchor the dining room, while balconies above evoke opera house boxes. White tablecloths and bowtie-clad service captains add to the restaurant’s refined ambiance, enhanced by an open kitchen and sunlight streaming through large windows. It’s calm, chic, and undeniably beautiful.
While the weekend brunch menu is slightly scaled back, every dish we tried was outstanding. The Italian chicory salad was crisp and flavorful, while the oysters à la pomme stood out for their freshness and inventive presentation. The artichoke amandine offered an unexpected twist, and the Caramelle Piedmontese was hands-down one of the best pasta dishes I’ve ever had—a bold claim, given my love for pasta. Shaped like candy and stuffed with divine fillings, it was cooked perfectly and remains on my mind. My guest raved about the chicken fricassée, and the Atlantic halibut in Barolo sauce was beautifully executed.
Desserts were equally irresistible, so we indulged in two: the apple cognac soufflé with velvety vanilla gelato and the chocolate caramel crémeux, both decadent and beautifully presented. Each dish highlighted Chef Carmellini’s seamless fusion of Italian and French influences, marrying classic techniques with a contemporary touch.
While the service was slower than ideal, the experience was otherwise exceptional. The restaurant boasts an impressive, comprehensive wine list featuring 1,800 selections, with standout bottles from Italy, France, the U.S., and beyond. Their cocktail program is equally diverse, offering something for every palate.
Café Carmellini is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and I can’t wait to return for dinner to explore more of its ambitious menu. Chef Carmellini’s thoughtful nod to his roots and family shines through in every bite, with simple yet perfectly executed dishes that celebrate flavor and tradition. This is yet another triumph for Andrew Carmellini and a must-visit destination in New York’s dining scene.
Recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
12/12/2024