You know the feeling when you’re excited to try a new restaurant? When you have heard great things, love the location, and have high expectations. That’s exactly how I felt heading to 425 by Jean George Vongerichten, a newly opened restaurant at Park Avenue and East 56th Street.
Anything involving Jean George is worth checking out, especially when you can avoid the hassle of heading downtown. Midtown and the Upper East Side are finally seeing more exciting and noteworthy dining options, and 425 seemed like it could be the next big thing. The space is breathtaking, a 14,000 square-foot restaurant spanning two floors of an office tower, it has a remarkable design by the esteemed Lord Norman Foster. Foster, a Pritzker prize-winning architect, created a masterpiece here. The ceilings soar to an incredible 45 feet, and a striking 24-foot Larry Poons oil painting hangs above the bar as you enter. Ascend a grand staircase to the mezzanine, where the 84-seat main dining room hovers above Park Avenue. It is easily one of the most dramatic restaurant spaces I’ve seen since the glory days of the Four Seasons’s Pool Room and Grill.
This could very well become the go-to spot for Midtown and the Upper East Side power lunches. The design exudes understated elegance with walnut walls, white tablecloths, plush grey and burgundy banquets, and a stunning chandelier of 231 circular lights. There is a huge glass-enclosed exhibition kitchen for your viewing pleasure. The attentive staff, dressed in sleek burgundy suits, add a touch to the refined ambiance.
So why wasn’t it busy at lunch? And why wouldn’t they accept a reservation if I wanted to dine solo? Apparently they can afford to turn away guests in a half-full restaurant (a frustrating policy).
Chef Jonathan Benno, with experience in kitchens like Daniel, Per Se, and The French Laundry, helms the kitchen here. The menu features new dishes distinct from Jean George’s’ nearby 2-star Michelin restaurant, and his restaurant at The Mark, offering both tasting and a la carte options. The menu provides caviar, crudos, vegetarian dishes, and selections from both land and sea. However, the food didn’t quite live up to the setting. My guests’ salmon was nothing special, and while the squid and octopus were tender, they were also heavily over-salted. Even my lychee raspberry Bellini missed the mark, though the staff graciously removed it from my bill.
The kitchen showed promise with its wonderful bread basket and desserts. The banana chocolate dessert I tried was delightful, a sweet finale that redeemed the experience somewhat.
Despite my mixed feelings, I’m inclined to give 425 another shot. The stunning design, architecture, excellent service, and convenient location for those staying uptown make it worth a second chance. Here’s hoping the kitchen finds its stride, as this place has the potential to be a true Midtown gem.
Happy dining,
Shanea
12/14/2024
