I recently discovered a true hidden gem in New York: Atera, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant tucked away at 77 Worth Street in Tribeca. How has no one told me about this place? Well, I’m here to share it with you now! It has been around for years, but its low profile belies the extraordinary experience it offers.
Getting there may cost you a $70 Uber ride, but trust me, it’s worth it. Atera hosts two seatings each night -5p.m. and 8:15 p.m.- plus a Saturday lunch. The $298 tasting menu is all-inclusive, with no surcharges for luxury ingredients like caviar or truffles, a rarity among fine dining establishments. Danish chef Ronny Emborg leads the kitchen, crafting a seasonal, 20-course menu that blends Scandinavian techniques and global influences.
The setting is intimate, with just 12 counter seats surrounding an open kitchen and a table tucked in the corner for 2, but trust me, you want to be at the counter, immersed in the action. The dimly lit room is minimalist, with a slate-colored bar, tightly packed stools (not the comfiest), and a curated playlist of lively music. Initially quiet, the vibe becomes more convivial as the night goes on, and by the end, you might find yourself chatting with your neighbours.
Atera, named after the Basque word for “to go out“, sourced herbs and other ingredients from a hidden garden in its sub-basement. The meal begins with a series of creative snacks, which make up the first third of the menu. Highlights include a lobster taco with caviar, an incredible fried cheese ball topped with fresh truffles, Kaluga caviar custard with bonito, and a show-stopping trout roe and foie gras wrapped in crispy nori. Each dish is imaginative and exquisitely plated, even if my photos couldn’t fully capture their beauty due to a no-flash policy.
Chef Emborg has a passion for wild, local ingredients, and an ever-evolving menu reflects this. While most dishes were outstanding, the aged duck with apple, sunchoke, and hazelnut dressing didn’t quite hit the mark for me- I prefer a crispier skin. But dishes like the corn cappuccino with saffron-infused ravioli and the halibut paired with scallops, porcini, and shiitake mushrooms were exceptional.
Atera offers thoughtful beverage pairings, including wine, juice, or tea progression. I appreciated the significant half-bottle options and I was particularly delighted with my glass of 2022 Burgundy by Joseph Colin, which paired perfectly with the meal.
Desserts were equally impressive, including the lemon/blueberry creation with burnt meringue and lemongrass and a blood orange dulce de leche dish. The meal ended with a nice selection of mignardises, rounding out an unforgettable evening.
Despite serving some of the city’s most serious food, Atera remains refreshingly unpretentious. Guests are welcome to dress casually, and the restaurant’s focus is squarely on delivering a world-class culinary journey. Regulars are warmly greeted, a testament to the loyalty this hidden gem inspires.
Every dish was artistic, thoughtful, and delicious. I’m not sure why Atera flies under the radar—this is truly one of New York’s most remarkable dining experiences.
Highly recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
12/19/2024
