One of my favourite dining experiences was at the Michelin 3-star Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare in New York, which took me years to get into. It was helmed by the remarkable, self-taught Chef César Ramirez. Although I had the opportunity to dine there only once, the meal left a lasting impression. The restaurant’s closure after a dramatic split between Ramirez and the owner marked the end of an era. Ramirez’s journey is fascinating without formal culinary training, he refined his craft in his 9 years at Bouley and learned classic techniques from extensive travels in France and Japan. He made his mark at Bouley (another one of my favourite restaurants) as chef de cuisine.
In 2022 and 2023, Ramirez was recognized as a top chef in North America by OAD, and this past July 2024, he launched his new namesake restaurant, César, at 333 Hudson Street in SoHo. The space is grander than Brooklyn Fare, with 13 seats at the counter and another 36 additional table seats, all well-spaced for comfort. The counter is the prime spot; while Chef Ramirez isn’t highly interactive with the guests, except for a brief hello, you get an up-close view of the meticulous kitchen activity. The room’s design is understated yet luxurious, featuring light woods, and a custom 30-foot counter. Housed in a former 1925 printing press building, the restaurant boasts soaring 16-foot ceilings, with every table offering a view of the completely open kitchen. The ambiance is refined and subdued, with staff dressed in sleek black suits, and soft rock plays in the background.
César has two seatings each night, the first starting at 6 p.m. and lasting around 2 to 2.5 hours, featuring a tasting menu of approximately 13 courses for $365 per person, excluding drinks. The meal showcases rare, top-quality ingredients like A5 Wagyu, Hokkaido uni, and fresh langoustines from Norway, all executed flawlessly. However, I found the supplemental charges for a sprinkling of truffles ($175) and caviar ($75) to be excessive, especially given that other fine dining establishments, like Atera, include these in the base price. It was almost insulting. Despite this, the seafood and game dishes, including the cracking-skinned duck and the beautifully plated fish and potato course, were memorable standouts, as was the scallop dish.
The wine experience is just as curated, led by head sommelier John McKenna. There is an extensive global wine list and a champagne cart, but no cocktails. I opted for a glass of Chablis, which paired perfectly with the mostly seafood-focused menu. Dining solo, I felt warmly welcomed- a rarity, as some top restaurants in New York still do not accommodate solo diners.
Ramirez’s cooking remains as precise and captivating as ever, without gimmicks or theatrical flourishes instead, it is a celebration of ingredient quality, thoughtful presentation, and elegant, professional service. I see Michelin stars on the horizon for César. Open every night except Wednesdays. César is undoubtedly among New York’s finest dining experiences.
Highly recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
12/21/2024
