I’ve been hearing a lot of buzz about a place in St. Catharines called Fat Rabbit, so on my latest trip to Niagara wine country and its surrounding farms, I decided to give it a try. Located at 34 Geneva Street, this small, casual, and utterly charming spot has earned a strong reputation among fellow food lovers. It’s a unique hybrid: part butcher shop, part restaurant, offering a true farm-to-table experience.
Tucked at the edge of a five-way intersection in downtown St. Catharines—just a 10–15 minute drive from Pearl Morissette—Fat Rabbit is run by chef-owner Zach Smith and his chef de cuisine Gareth Burkholder. The space is industrial yet warm, with concrete floors, exposed piping, wood furniture, and large windows that flood the room with natural light. In warmer months, garage doors open up to a patio, and an open kitchen lets you watch as your meat is grilled over a wood fire. The deli counter displayed butchered cuts to enjoy in-house or take home, alongside curated fridges and shelves selling housemade spices, condiments, and provisions.
The food? Excellent. Top-tier meats are the centerpiece, whether you’re dining in or taking out, all prepared with a zero-waste butchery philosophy—they use every part of the animal. Charcuterie is made in-house and comes with stellar sourdough from RPM Bakery, served with herbed butter (we had it with fresh chives—simple and perfect). The menu changes seasonally, reflecting the bounty of local farms. Naturally, charcoal-grilled steaks are a mainstay, but the cheeseburger is just as impressive, layered with caramelized onions, Gruyère, house pickles, and dijonnaise, all on an RPM bun.
Vegetable dishes are not an afterthought. A standout was grilled vegetables in a marcona almond sauce, and the crispy potatoes, served with both garlic mayo and bomba sauce, were perfection. The steak tartare—with raisins, walnuts, honey, mint, and other unexpected but well-balanced elements—was served over a warm, crisp rectangle of fried cheese and was memorable.
Other highlights:
Raw scallops on a bed of beets and pickled cucumber—fresh, bright, and beautifully plated.
A stunning grilled whole trout, trussed and stuffed with mustard greens and chive butter—enough for two.
Turnips, of all things, won me over with a beurre blanc, Mimolette, and bottarga combo that was surprisingly luxurious.
You can select any cut of beef from the counter, let the chefs know how you’d like it cooked, and trust them to handle the rest. Add a finishing sauce, such as pepper or piri piri, if you’re
so inclined.
And don’t skip dessert. The sticky toffee pudding, topped with quality vanilla ice cream, is the best I’ve had (and I’ve had many). We were also treated to a decadent, creamy cheese set in maple syrup—it ate like a cheesecake and was pure heaven.
The beverage program had a thoughtful wine list, local beers, and craft cocktails. Between Fat Rabbit and Pearl Morissette, this region is making waves—and rightly so. Fat Rabbit even earned a Michelin recommendation this year, a well-deserved recognition.
With its commitment to seasonal, sustainable sourcing and outstanding execution, Fat Rabbit is a must-visit. I’m eager to return and explore more of the menu.
Enthusiastically recommended. Happy dining!
Shanea
06/26/2025
