What began as a modest Saigon street stall in 1995 became a culinary landmark after Anthony Bourdain featured it on No Reservations. Since then, Lunch Lady has earned 3 consecutive Bib Gourmand awards in Vancouver. Now, it’s made its way to Toronto at 93 Ossington Avenue.
This opening comes with deep emotion: founder and chef Ms. Nguyen Thi Thanh tragically passed away after flying to Toronto to open her latest location. The launch was pushed back three weeks to mourn and regroup. When it finally opened, the restaurant was packed — full of energy, gratitude, and a sense of purpose.
Led by Chef Benedict Lim and Michael Tran, this is no street cart. It’s an industrial-chic space that seats about 150—including a bar, chef’s counter, small front patio, and two private rooms. The design mixes exposed beams, forest green ceilings, stamped concrete floors, custom ironwork, curved booths, and sliding glass doors. Photos of Ms. Thanh and Anthony Bourdain line the walls, adding heart to the atmosphere.
The menu spans small plates, signature dishes, rice and noodles, classics, two tasting menus, and dessert.
Highlights from our table:
- Beef Carpaccio: Thinly sliced filet topped with peanuts, crispy shallots, Thai basil, mint, perilla, and a zesty lime vinaigrette. Beautifully balanced and full of umami. We paired it with crispy taro chips—a perfect combo.
- Octopus Skewers: Tender, chargrilled octopus with lemongrass sate, Vietnamese coriander, and green chili dipping sauce — bright, flavourful, and well executed.
We also tried the soft shell crab lettuce wraps — though I found the batter a bit too thick. A crispy prawn version is also available.
The garlic noodles — made with egg noodles, garlic butter, Parmigiano, and a slow-poached egg — are for serious garlic lovers.
The Wagyu pho, one of just two soup options at dinner, features rare wagyu, smoked wagyu cheek, bone marrow, a slow-poached egg, and a 24-hour beef broth, served with rice noodles and house-made condiments for custom spicing.
If you’re dining with a group, two family-style tasting menus are available: one for 2 guests ($65 per person with 6 popular dishes), or one for 4 guests (9 dishes).
Drinks: We enjoyed the Tropical Spritz — a refreshing mix of gin, Aperol, prosecco, tropical fruit and lime soda. Other fun cocktail options include the Lychee Passionfruit, Tamarind Sour, Mango Margarita, and Ca Phe Martini.
There’s also a curated list of Ontario wines, Vietnamese coffee, and non-alcoholic options. Cocktails are $3 off at lunch.
Dessert tip: We loved the Three Layer Dessert, a longtime favourite. Think French toast meets Vietnamese indulgence — pandan sticky rice cake, coconut condensed milk ice cream, strawberry red bean purée, and mung bean streusel. Unique and delicious.
Despite it being opening night, service was impressively smooth — thanks in part to support staff from Vancouver. Everyone we met was warm, friendly, and genuinely thankful for the turnout.
Lunch Lady is more than pho — it’s a bold and modern expression of Vietnamese street food, infused with the spirit of its founder. A heartfelt, flavour-packed addition to the Ossington dining scene.
Recommended.
Happy dining,
— Shanea
10/09/2025
