Toronto Has a New Gem — And It’s Serving Up Nostalgia
Do you know what Toronto’s been missing? A restaurant that delivers honest, soul-satisfying comfort food with a Jewish and Eastern European twist. The kind of food that brings back memories of home-cooked meals from a grandmother’s kitchen—not fancy, but full of love, care, and tradition.
That’s exactly what Chef Shauna Godfrey has brought to the city with Maven, her heartfelt tribute to her Bubie Rosie. Named after the Yiddish word for “expert,” Maven is more than just a restaurant—it’s a celebration of heritage, family recipes, and the kind of food that nourishes both body and soul. But make no mistake: while rooted in tradition, the dishes here are elevated with refined, modern touches, thanks to Chef Godfrey’s impressive culinary background.
A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Chef Godfrey has cooked in some of the most respected kitchens, including the two Michelin-starred Atera in New York (a personal favourite of mine) and Momofuku Kojin in Toronto, where she eventually rose to sous chef. Her pedigree shows, but what makes Maven special is how personal it feels.
Located at 112 Harbord Street, right across from Rasa, Maven sits in what was once a dive bar in a building from the early 1900s. After a stunning transformation, it’s now a warm, light-filled space filled with character and history. Family heirlooms—like Bubie Rosie’s blue bottles and tablecloths-turned-drapes—infuse the room with warmth and authenticity. Exposed brick, a cozy bar, an open kitchen, and blue leatherette banquettes create an inviting atmosphere, while thoughtful design details, such as sound-dampening ceiling panels, make for a comfortable dining experience.
Chef Kai Wonshirandecha, a friend and fellow CIA alum, helps helm the kitchen. Together, they’ve created a menu full of comforting, creative takes on Jewish classics.
What to Order?
Start with the pillowy challah bun—available with butter and Maldon salt or a velvety chicken liver mousse topped with sour cherry compote. Every table is treated to a complimentary jar of tangy coleslaw, and the bill arrives with a recipe card so you can recreate it at home.
One of the standout dishes for me was the BBQ salami—grilled beef salami glazed with apricot preserves, served with a dollop of Kozlik’s mustard. It instantly brought back memories of my dad grilling salami on the barbecue. Another must-try is the golden chicken schnitzel, fried in brown butter and topped with a fermented plum sauce (available upon request). It’s crispy, juicy, and deeply satisfying.
The duck confit cholent is another highlight—a rich, comforting stew made with Romano beans, schmaltzy onions, dill, and a melt-in-your-mouth duck leg. It’s more reminiscent of a French cassoulet than a traditional cholent, and that’s a good thing. We paired it with perfectly crispy double-fried potatoes and “Mensch sauce,” which goes with everything.
Vegetable sides shine, too—like sticky carrots with labneh, pink peppercorn glaze, and chopped hazelnuts, or the dill spaetzle with caraway and dill butter.
For dessert, don’t miss Bubie Rosie’s cheesecake: a simple, creamy classic with a graham cracker crust and sour cream topping. It reminded me of my own mother’s cheesecake—a sweet ending steeped in memory.
Drinks include clever cocktails like the Borscht Belt Spritz and Pickeltini, alongside a curated selection of European liqueurs and sustainable wines. But for pure nostalgia, we sipped on two Vernor ginger ales.
Maven is that rare restaurant that doesn’t just serve great food—it tells a story. It feels like home, yet fresh and new. The care, heritage, and top-tier culinary skills behind every dish shine through. It’s a place that makes you smile, fills you up, and leaves you a little wistful in the best way.
Now open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Recommended!
Happy dining,
Shanea
06/05/2025
