In the realm of dining in Japan, where some adhere strictly to Japanese cuisine, I typically align with this purist mindset. However, the persistent buzz surrounding Seirinkan, a pizza haven in Tokyo, piqued my curiosity and beckoned me to deviate from my culinary norms. I’m thrilled that I embraced this open-minded approach. Seirinkan’s international recognition soared further when Momofuku’s David Chang featured it on his Netflix show, Ugly Delicious. Blogger Jeremy Berkowitz raved about it, and rightly so. This pizza gem, operating under its present name since 2007, owes its acclaim to Chef Susumu Nakimura, hailed as the maestro, the godfather of Japanese-style Neapolitan pizza. His journey involved a year of immersing himself in Italy’s finest pizzerias as a young man before returning to establish this pinnacle of pizza craft.
Our pilgrimage to Seirinkan led us through a 20-minute cab ride (which ended up costing more than the pizza) to the unassuming backstreets of Tokyo. The destination, a modest three-story, narrow building without any signage, was unveiled by the presence of a queue- the unmistakable indicator of our desired location. The ground floor housed a compact open kitchen centered around a wood-burning oven. Ascending a narrow wrought-iron winding staircase (not for everyone), we reached our perch on the second floor admits rustic elements- dark wood floors, crimson velvet curtains, and robust wooden chairs, each bearing a unique pew adorned with a crucifix. Stories are they were purchased at a vintage sale, but I’d like to think of them as symbolic of a gastronomic shrine. The walls are adorned with Beatles posters and photographs, while the backdrop melody serenades with classic Beatles tunes. Undoubtedly, Seirinkan exuded a vibe of grungy coolness.
The menu was refreshingly concise, featuring only two pizzas alongside offerings like pasta, artichokes, Caprese, octopus, ham, burrata, salads, and various desserts. Yet the true star and raison d’être were the pizzas- individually crafted and swiftly fired in a scorching 900-degree oven for a mere 60 seconds. The choices were straightforward: the Margherita, adorned with tomato, basil, and mozzarella, and the Marinara, boasting ripe, aromatic sweet tomatoes, generously dressed with olive oil and salt. The result? A blistering crust, boasting a lightness and chewiness, crafting one of the most exceptional pizzas you will taste.
Chef Nakimurna adamantly distinguishes his creation as not American or Italian but as distinctly Japanese in style. His philosophy centers on coaxing the utmost natural flavors from the base ingredients without altering them. To me, what defines the pizza as quintessentially Japanese is the meticulous attention lavished on every detail, seamlessly fusing aesthetics and flavour into a harmonious and perfectly balanced pizza.
Highly recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
06/13/2024
