Chef Vicky Cheng, one of my favourite chefs, owns the Michelin-starred VEA in Hong Kong, which also ranks on Asia’s 50 best lists. I had an unforgettable meal there last time I was in Hong Kong and it was my only repeat on my recent visit. I don’t understand why they don’t have at least 2 Michelin stars. Chef Cheng has opened another acclaimed restaurant, Wing, located just one floor below VEA at 198 Wellington Street in Central. This building also houses the famous restaurant The Chairman, making it a prime destination for food enthusiasts.

Wing features 3 distinct small dining rooms, a popular restaurant design choice in Chinese culture, with decor that exudes tranquility through shades of jade, beige, blond woods, and marble surfaces. The space is elegantly appointed with grey leather and suede chairs, and all dishware, crystal, stemware, and light fixtures are meticulously chosenWing, named after Chef Cheng’s Chinese name meaning “eternity,” offers contemporary Chinese cuisine crafted with high-quality local ingredients and a touch of culinary finesse, trained in classical French cuisine and having worked with renowned chefs like Daniel Boulud and Jason Bangerter, of Langdon Hall in Canada. Chef Cheng blends European techniques with traditional Chinese flavours. Wing, which opened in 2021, showcases his passion for the eight great Chinese cuisines with a menu that is seasonal and frequently updated.

Our 13-course meal began with four exquisitely presented cold starters: salt and pepper blue lobster claw, smoked eggplant with house-made sour sauce, chili jimami tofu with a golden crystal egg, and drunken South African abalone. This was followed by a sublime double-boiled baby lamb soup with morel mushrooms. The main courses included steamed wild Macau sole, sea cucumber roll, fragrant chili Alaskan crab, baby pigeon roasted with cane sugar, stir-fried Chinese kale with shrimp paste and cured pork, and fish maw with yellow fungus in abalone sauce served with rice. I tasted dishes I had never encountered before, and while not every bite was to my taste, the experience of venturing out of my culinary comfort zone was unparalleled. The restaurant customizes meals based on guest’s preferences for future visits, ensuring a tailored dining experience.

The service at Wing was impeccable, and the food was artistically presented, celebrating the best seasonal ingredients. Guests are welcomed with Taiwanese Oolong tea, and a variety of teas are served throughout the meal, each hand-selected by the chef’s wife. We opted for a premium wine pairing, starting with Krug 2016, as a chef is has been a Krug ambassador for 6 years. Dessert was served from a beautifully arranged trolley featuring exotic seasonal fruits and coconut sorbet. The chef also delighted us with a nostalgic creamsicle he used to make his mother, crafted with a banana shell, vanilla ice cream, and mango jam, followed by an assortment of sweet mignardises.

Wing is undoubtedly on the pricier side, but the labor-intensive cooking and the use of rare, precious ingredients make it worth every penny. This restaurant is a labor of love for Chef Cheng, who honours tradition while incorporating contemporary touches. Wing has achieved the impressive feat of being ranked number 5 on Asia’s 50 Best List in a remarkably short time. This is Chinese dining at its finest, and Wing is currently one of the most sought-after tables in Hong Kong.

Recommended.

Happy dining,

Shanea

10/26/2024

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