I frequently read reviews before trying a restaurant, but never let them strongly influence my opinions. One notable example is the 3 Michelin Star Restaurant Otto E Mezzo Bombana in Hong Kong. As Shania Twain’s song says, “It don’t impress me much.”

Opened in 2010 and located in Hong Kong’s Alexandra House in Central, chef Umberto Bombana’s restaurant is the only 3-star Italian establishment in Hong Kong, maintaining this honour for 11 consecutive years. It even made the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2021, which I find puzzling. Bombana also operates a 2-star branch in Shanghai and a 1-star in Macau, but my experience is limited to the Hong Kong location.

Promoted as a refined Italian fine dining, the restaurant sits in a busy mall and exudes an upscale vibe with its fine woods, leather, crisp white tablecloths, and a palette of deep sepia, bronze, and cream. However, the decor felt somewhat dated. Despite the Waiters being impeccably dressed in jackets and ties, many patrons wore jeans and running shoes- a surprising sight in a 3-star establishment, reflecting changing times.

The restaurant offers a 5-course tasting menu at  $437 and an a la carte option, the latter of which we chose. Known as the ‘king of white truffles‘, the chef’s signature ingredient was out of season, and the summer black truffles used did little to enhance the dishes. Surprisingly, no local ingredients were used, and everything was imported, yet the food remained mediocre. The bread selection was the highlight of the meal, even surpassing those I’ve had during my numerous trips to Italy. The intermezzo was theatrically delightful, but the homemade plates of pasta were disappointing. The lobster and beef dishes were marginally better but far from exceptional. Both the menu and music felt outdated.

Service did not meet the high expectations. No one replaced my napkin when it fell, nor did they cover a stain on the tablecloth. The restaurant boasts one of the city’s largest collections of new and old-world Italian wines, with over 2,000 bottles, and offers premium wines by the glass. The Negroni was excellent, and the bar that stays open late is a better option for a drink or a snack. Overall, the meal was unremarkable and not worth the time or money.

Happy dining,

Shanea

10/24/2024

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