20 Victoria in Toronto has quietly entered a new and compelling chapter—one that deserves your attention. Tucked away at 20 Victoria Street, the restaurant feels entirely reenergized under the direction of Chef Rafa Covarrubias.
The space remains intimate, dimly lit, and minimalist, with a soft palette of creams and green accents that create a calm, understated elegance. At the front, the kitchen gallery offers a more abbreviated four-course experience at just three high-top tables for two, where guests can enjoy a close-up view of the action. A compact, fully open kitchen separates this area from the main dining room, where 20 to 26 guests are seated for the full seven-course tasting menu.
Chef Rafa has brought with him a strong core team from his time at Hexagon in Oakville, including chef de cuisine Jordan Wilkinson and sous chef Victoria Rinsma. What this team produces in such a compact space is nothing short of remarkable.
There is a noticeable shift in both energy and execution. The cooking feels more confident and expressive, leaning into bolder, more dynamic flavours while maintaining precision and discipline. The result is a menu that feels inventive, thoughtful, and deeply satisfying.
Several dishes stood out. A delicate tart of kampachi with leche de tigre, habanada, kohlrabi, and edible flowers was both refined and vibrant. A one-bite beef tartare, tucked inside a donut-like sphere with sweet onion cream, delivered a surprising burst of flavour. Hokkaido scallops, sweet and pristine, were elevated with artichoke, mole verde, and brown butter. A nod to the chef’s Mexican heritage came through in a beautifully executed tamale with snow crab and salsa roja—truly exceptional. And if duck appears on the menu, it is not to be missed. Prepared through a meticulous process, the result is crisp, golden skin reminiscent of Peking duck, paired with perfectly cooked meat.
Dessert continued the momentum with a seasonal rhubarb creation featuring sesame, brown butter, and tarragon ice cream. Even the petit fours were memorable, reinforcing the kitchen’s attention to detail from start to finish.
The experience unfolds with a refined, confident rhythm. Hospitality remains polished yet genuinely warm, guided by owner Chris White, who seamlessly moves between roles as host, maître d’, and front of house. He strikes an ideal balance between professionalism and ease.
What stands out most is not reinvention, but thoughtful evolution. The DNA of 20 Victoria is firmly intact, yet there is a renewed sense of intent and confidence that elevates the entire experience. Having dined here before (click here to read my 2021 review), I can say without hesitation that this new direction is more vibrant, more expressive, and ultimately more memorable.
20 Victoria now stands as one of Toronto’s most compelling dining destinations.
Highly recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
03/28/2026
