I recently visited a restaurant that had generated quite a bit of buzz, and while there was certainly much to like, I left feeling somewhat underwhelmed.
What initially drew me in was the name: Lardo. Located at 970 College Street, the name refers to the rich, melt-in-your-mouth Italian cured pork fat that is a delicacy in many regions of Italy. At the same time, the word carries a more playful, less flattering connotation in English, as slang for an overweight person. It certainly caught my attention and piqued my curiosity.
Lardo began life in May 2023 as a deli and sandwich shop before evolving into a full-fledged Italian wine bar and restaurant in 2024. The space is tiny, accommodating approximately 35 guests in total. The front room features bar seating and high-top tables, while a small, more intimate dining room occupies the back. A handful of outdoor seats line the sidewalk along busy College Street.
The restaurant itself feels warm and inviting, and the welcome was genuinely hospitable. Unfortunately, despite requesting a table in the rear dining room, our seats were given to two larger parties. To their credit, the staff graciously sent over complimentary Prosecco and focaccia as an apology, a thoughtful gesture that was appreciated.
The décor is simple but attractive. Shiny terrazzo floors, stone-like counters, teal blue chairs, and a carefully curated playlist create a relaxed atmosphere. The front room has a lively, casual energy, while the dimly lit back room offers a more intimate setting, enhanced by artwork adorning the walls.
The menu is divided into antipasti, primi, and secondi. The homemade focaccia, which can be topped with lardo for those who wish, is a signature offering. We began with a zucchini dish featuring seasonal zucchini sliced thinly over stracciatella, nduja, and mint. We also ordered the steak tartare with capers, shallots, chives, and egg yolk, served atop a crisp crostini. Both starters were enjoyable and well executed. The menu also features crudo, salads, and charcuterie selections.
The primi section consists of three seasonal pasta dishes that rotate regularly. This is where my enthusiasm began to fade. Toronto is blessed with an abundance of excellent Italian restaurants, including nearby favourites such as Giulietta and Liliana, both of which consistently deliver exceptional pasta. The cavatelli and agnolotti we sampled were cooked a touch too al dente for my liking. While the sauces were pleasant enough, neither dish left a lasting impression.
We did not sample any of the main courses, which included pork belly, rainbow trout, and steak, so I cannot fairly comment on those offerings.
Service throughout the evening was friendly but somewhat slow. The restaurant was managing two large tables, and with only two people working in the kitchen, the pace occasionally lagged.
One area where Lardo shines is its beverage program. The wine list is impressive, with a strong emphasis on Italian producers alongside selections from France, Germany, and Austria. There are also several well-crafted cocktails, many highlighting classic Italian spirits.
For dessert, the options included tiramisu, sorbet, and an almond crumble with whipped ricotta and seasonal fruit. We chose the latter. While enjoyable, it resembled almond cookies served with whipped ricotta rather than what most diners would consider a traditional crumble.
Sometimes the most difficult restaurant reviews to write are not about places that are bad, but about places that simply fail to excite. Nothing at Lardo was objectively wrong. The atmosphere is pleasant, the staff are welcoming, and several dishes were enjoyable. Yet, in a city overflowing with outstanding Italian restaurants, I found myself wanting more.
If I lived in the neighbourhood, I could easily see myself stopping in for a glass of wine and a few antipasti. As a local gathering place, it undoubtedly has its charms. However, for me, it did not quite justify a special trip across the city.
Happy dining,
Shanea
06/10/2026
