Toronto is buzzing with the grand opening of Estiatorio Milos, a high-end international restaurant chain that started in Montreal, Canada in 1979. With locations in New York, London, Miami, Dubai, Las Vegas, Los Cabos, and Singapore, and soon in Boston and Mexico City, Toronto becomes the second Canadian outpost for founder Costas Spiliadis. While I’m typically not a fan of chain restaurants, Milos stands out for its beautiful spaces and ultra-fresh (albeit pricey) seafood.
The new location, at 330 Bay Street, is housed in a historic building with 7,000 square feet of elegant dining space. The atmosphere caters perfectly to Toronto’s financial district for lunch on weekdays and to an affluent crowd in the evenings. The restaurant is divided into three distinct areas: a casual and quieter lounge at the front, a vibrant main dining room with soaring ceilings, marble columns, a lively fish market display, and a private room for up to 16 guests. The setting, marked by white linen tablecloths, antique stone urns on loan from the Greek government, and eye-catching light fixtures, is grand, light, and inviting.
Milo’s is famous for its impressive selection of Mediterranean fish flown in daily and displayed on ice alongside fresh vegetables, a cheese table, and live tanks showcasing some large lobsters. However, I wonder if they’ll be able to sustain such lavish displays, considering the cost and potential waste. The diverse menu offers traditional Greek dishes with dips, salads, crispy fried items, and a variety of seafood. For those not keen on fish, there are a few selections of meat and the lamb chops are highly recommended. The signature olive oil, sourced from Spiliadis’ sister’s olive orchards, is a standout, and you can purchase a bottle to take home.
A must-try is the crispy eggplant and zucchini tower, served with tzatziki, though on my visit, it arrived cold and had to be sent back. The grilled octopus, another favourite, also fell short, but I’m willing to give them a pass as it was opening night, and they were jammed packed, and could have possibly been overwhelmed. Service was a bit uneven, likely due to nerves and insufficient training.
Having visited several other Milo’s locations, I’m confident this one will improve. The kitchen’s dedication to quality and simplicity shines through, especially in how they prepare their fish-grilled, roasted, or poached with olive oil and a touch of vinegar. However, be cautious when ordering your fish or seafood, as they tend to upsell at many Milos establishments; always ask for the weight and price upfront.
For lunch, there is a great three-course menu that is good value. At dinner, we enjoyed our Maryland jumbo crab cakes and our sea bass ceviche. The Greek salad is always a nice light, safe bet, especially when tomatoes are in season. If you are in the mood for an indulgence, there is a caviar service, plus there is a nice selection of oysters, sashimi, and tartare. And don’t miss out on ordering the extra crispy is the way to go!
Unique to this Milo’s location is a family-style meal featuring comforting dishes like slow-roasted goat and oven-roasted Canadian lamb, meant to evoke the chef’s memories of meals at his mother’s table. The wine list emphasizes Greek bottles and the cocktail menu, mostly classics which were well executed. Desserts were another highlight, particularly the authentic Greek yogurt with thyme honey and candied walnuts, the baklava, and a layered vanilla and lemon phyllo custard called Galakoboureko.
Despite a few hiccups, Estiatorio Milos is set to become a premier seafood destination in Toronto. Just remember, it’s a spot for big spenders, but if you are passionate about impeccably fresh fish, you’ll be rewarded.
Happy dining,
Shanea
02/15/2025
