Chef David Schwartz has had an incredibly busy few years, but none more so this past year. He happens to be one of my favourite chefs and people. Young, talented, humble, and full of heart, his cooking reflects his passion. I’ve followed his career since his early 20s when he started at a small spot on Ossington Avenue called Omaw. Now, he’s come full circle and returned to Ossington, but I will get to that in a minute.

Since then, Chef David has launched Sunnys Chinese, initially as a takeout concept during Covid. He followed it up with the upscale Mimi  Chinese on Davenport, which earned him a Michelin nod and the title of Best Young Chef in 2023. Then came the brick-and-mortar Sunnys Chinese in Kensington Market, which earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Each of his restaurants has received glowing accolades, and it couldn’t happen to a nicer person.

This year has been particularly eventful. He married, opened Linny’s Restaurant, and is set to debut Mimi Chinese in Miami at the former Sushi Fly Chicken spot on Alton Road in South Beach. Not bad for someone who is barely 30ish.

This review is about Linny’s, which opened just six days before I wrote this, and I was lucky to snag a reservation. Located in his original neighborhood at 176 Ossington, in a space that once housed a hardware store, it’s hard to imagine the transformation. After a 16-month renovation, it’s a chic 90-seat restaurant with a cool 50s aesthetic. Named in honour of his late mother, the restaurant is a heartfelt tribute. Her style and recipes are woven into the design her recipes are hung on the walls in the entrance, and even in the downstairs washrooms.

As you step inside, you are immediately drawn to the terrazzo floors, dim lighting, corduroy booths, and animal print features, all inspired by his mother’s taste. Linny’s feels like a love letter to her. Every detail has been carefully considered the music, an amazing jazz mix upstairs, with oldies like Ella Fitzgerald and Jimmy Durante playing downstairs in the bathrooms. In the back, an exhibition kitchen gives guests a glimpse of the action, with David overseeing every dish.

The menu is a nostalgic blend of a classic steakhouse and old-world deli, full of dishes that evoke memories from my childhood. For the younger crowd, it’s like discovering a whole new cuisine. Inspired by family recipes, it kicks off with Noshes, like a tiny challah service, served with jam, cheese, and house-made pickles. The chicken liver toast was an elevated take on a traditional favourite, and another blast from the past, kasha, and bows, a dish that brought me right back to my youth. The mushroom blintz was another standout, a delicately rolled crepe stuffed with mushrooms, topped with a rich gravy and a generous helping of chanterelles.

For those looking to indulge, there is a caviar service. For the mains, under the “beef” section, the Romanian hanger steak was cooked to perfection, and my bone in tenderloin was also delicious. The menu offers ribeye, NY strip, and porterhouse. From the “House Specialties ” section, I loved the Shake n’ Bake, a playful, but elevated take on a childhood classic, served with a hot and honey sauce. Chef David even sent over some of his pastrami, and I’m so glad he did- it was hands down the best I’ve ever had. The 15-hour process to cure the meat, hand-sliced and served with mustard and pickles, was worth every calorie. We also tried the broccoli, served on a bed of whitefish with capers and mustard greens, and the thrice-cooked French fries were perfection- crispy just the way I like them.

For dessert, there were 3-choices. An apple cake, a trifle, and a babka. We opted for the freshly baked babka, served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Our server Sam suggested we pat down the ice cream so it could melt into the pastry, great suggestion! As someone who knows their babka, I can confidently say this rendition was out of this world.

The wine list was impressive, featuring selections from their downstairs cellar from Italy, France, Spain, Germany, Austria, Oregon, Ontario, Washington, and California. Sam’s recommendations were spot on, including a delightful mocktail for my granddaughter and a gin-based cocktail prepared especially for me.

I truly relish this type of un-fussy yet expertly prepared cuisine. The Big Hug Hospitality Group has another hit on its hands, and the name couldn’t be more fitting. Linny’s is not just a restaurant- it’s an experience, a heartfelt tribute, and a testament to David Schwartz’s talent and creativity. It’s not only a tribute to his Mother, but by extension to all mothers and grandmothers. The restaurant beautifully celebrates culinary traditions passed down through generations, evoking both comfort and fond memories. It’s reassuring to know that deli cuisine is far from dead- it has been revived here in the most delicious way. Kudos to a very special place.

Recommended.

Happy dining,

Shanea

10/19/2024

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