For years, Midtown Manhattan was considered a culinary wasteland—home to a lackluster lineup of uninspired restaurants. Diners seeking a decent meal typically had to head north or, more reliably, south. But recently, a wave of ambitious openings from some of the city’s most celebrated chefs has begun to change that perception.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten has debuted 425, Simon Kim of Cote has opened the modern Korean restaurant Naro and is developing a new concept, and David Burke is preparing to unveil a brasserie. Sam Yoo of Golden Diner fame is launching Hof, and perhaps most excitingly, Michelin-decorated chef Michael White has returned to Midtown with Santi, his latest venture at 520 Madison Avenue—a location that once housed his former flagship, Alto.

Michael White, known for earning six Michelin stars across his restaurants—including two for Marea—has also received a prestigious three-star review from The New York Times and multiple James Beard nominations. His coastal Italian cuisine, shaped by years of cooking and living in Italy, continues to evolve through his travels and apprenticeships throughout the Amalfi Coast and the South of France. Santi, meaning “the sainted hands of the chef,” reflects that deep culinary journey.

I recently visited Santi for lunch, and it proved an incredibly convenient stop while shopping in Midtown and the Upper East Side. Entering from 11 E 53rd Street, you’re welcomed by a striking horseshoe-shaped bar with a glowing yellow onyx backsplash. We descended a few steps into the main dining room—although the restaurant also features an upper-level dining area and private rooms for peak hours.

Downstairs, the space is divided into two rooms: the first offers a moody, club-like vibe with, half moon leather banquettes, oil portraits, and curated objets d’art; the second—a courtyard-style room—features soaring ceilings, sheer draped curtains, and a dramatic hand-blown glass chandelier. Though the layout is expansive, the design evokes intimacy. The aesthetic leans modern and luxurious, with dark wood paneling and neutral tones throughout.

There’s been a significant investment in the space, which is now part of the Bianco Hospitality Group, co-owned by White and Bruce Bronster. The ambiance is lively—especially during lunch hour—but the conversation remains comfortably audible.

Chef White is, of course, renowned for his crudos and handmade pasta. Lunch offers a two-course prix fixe at $59 or three courses for $72. Naturally, I went with the full experience. It was refreshing to see a proper bread service: house-made focaccia served with rich, churned butter and a dish of exceptional extra virgin olive oil—a warm welcome to the meal.

We began with a selection of crudos, which were excellent, but the pastas truly stole the show. My husband hasn’t stopped raving about his Bolognese. Meanwhile, I made the mistake of ordering a shrimp salad—perfectly fine, but let’s be honest: at a Michael White restaurant, the pasta is the star.

The cocktail program also impressed me, and the wine list was superbly curated. Dessert was not to be missed—each sweet surpassed expectations. The pistachio tartaletta, flourless chocolate cake with zabaglione, and panna cotta with fresh berries were all exquisite. Frankly, I don’t remember desserts this good even in Italy.

Santi isn’t just for power lunches or the “ladies who lunch.” It’s for anyone who appreciates thoughtful, refined Italian cuisine served with style. Add in the buzzy, beautifully designed space, and you’ve got one of Midtown’s most compelling new dining destinations, whether it is lunch or dinner.

Recommended.

Happy dining,

Shanea

05/01/2025

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