The 8-seat chef’s counter at Sushi Yügen, nestled on the main floor of the 150 York Street tower, unveiled its door in early December 2023. Tucked away at the back of the restaurant’s large sushi counter, it offers a unique twist on the traditional Japanese omakase experience. Chef Kyohei Igarashi orchestrates a 19-course journey, blending the elegance of kaiseki with the precision of sushi making.
The ambiance is a sanctuary of serenity, with a minimalist aesthetic of blond oak counters, soft white walls, and exquisite tableware, evoking a zen-like atmosphere. Part one of the meal is where Chef Igarashi’s artistry truly shines. From a velvety sweet potato soup adorned with delicate crisps to a mesmerizing display of sashimi nestled beneath a sculpted ice dome embellished with summer truffles and gold leaf, each dish is a testament to his creativity and skill.
Gracious servers, dressed in elegant kimonos, guide diners through the culinary odyssey, presenting dishes like chilled noodles in a dashi broth, garnished with edible flowers. I have more enthusiastic praise for the first part of the meal than the second part. Despite the premium quality of the fish, sourced mainly from Japan, and the inclusion of prized A5 wagyu, the temperature contrast between the cold fish and warm rice detracted from the overall experience.
You can indulge in sake pairings, choose from a curated selection of Japanese whiskey and beers, or savour seasonal cocktails. Each aspect of the dining experience reflects meticulous attention to detail, from the extensive preparation to the harmonious interplay of flavours crafted from seasonal ingredients.
In essence, Sushi Yügen offers a journey through the artistry of Japanese cuisine. Though, as I mentioned, some aspects fall a little short set by other renowned establishments.
Recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
07/11/2024