Torno Subito has recently made its debut in Miami, marking a bold new venture for world-renowned chef Massimo Bottura of Modena. Known for his celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Osteria Francescana, which was twice crowned the Best Restaurant in the World by San Pellegrino, Bottura is a culinary legend. I was fortunate to dine at Osteria Francescana during its peak, and while my expectations were sky-high, I found myself underwhelmed by the décor, service, and even the food. Securing a reservation felt like winning the lottery, but the experience didn’t live up to the hype. On the other hand, I thoroughly enjoyed Bottura’s more casual eatery, Franceschetta58, which delivered flavorful, contemporary à la carte dishes in a more relaxed setting.
Beyond his culinary endeavors, Bottura is a visionary, spearheading the non-profit Food for Soul, which combats food waste and promotes awareness of world hunger. He’s also featured in my favorite episode of Chef’s Table, showcasing his extraordinary talent and heart.
In Miami, Bottura’s newest concept, Torno Subito, is helmed by Chef Bernardo Paladini, who previously earned the restaurant’s namesake in Dubai a Michelin star. While I admire the ambition, I can’t help but question the choice of location: 200 East Flagler Street, an area known for its gritty surroundings and limited parking options (valet is a must here). Perhaps the proximity to Julia & Henry’s Food Hall played a role? Regardless, the venue itself is a stark contrast to its neighborhood—a whimsical, theatrical space that begins with a striking red-arched doorway and an elevator ride up to a vibrant rooftop setting.
The décor is a kaleidoscope of bold colors and playful touches, reminiscent of the now-closed Tickets in Barcelona with its circus-like atmosphere. Even the bathrooms have their own unique, quirky themes. Upon entering, you’re greeted by a bright yellow pizza oven and led past the open kitchen and bar to the dining room or rooftop terrace. It’s a space designed to delight and surprise.
The menu follows suit with whimsical names like Rockster Roll, Feelin’ Green, Tiramisubito, and I Love Tartare. Prices, however, are steep—$52 for tortellini in a Parmesan cream sauce and $42-$48 for other portions of pasta topped with uninspiring truffles. There’s even a Wagyu burger, a collaboration with Shake Shack, served in a colorful box, but the execution feels more like a gimmick than a culinary triumph.
For those seeking a more curated experience, there’s a $165 eight-course tasting menu, showcasing the chef’s “greatest hits” alongside new creations, with optional wine or cocktail pairings. While the food is respectable, it doesn’t reach the level of excitement one might expect from Bottura’s reputation. Two standouts for me were the simple yet delicious focaccia and the Pappa al Pomodoro soup, a comforting dish made from day-old bread, tomatoes, and Parmesan rinds—a testament to Bottura’s commitment to minimizing waste.
On a brighter note, the service was lovely. The staff were warm, attentive, and genuinely enthusiastic. The drink menu also deserves praise, offering an impressive selection of Negronis, spritzes, martinis, and beach-inspired cocktails. The passion fruit spritz and classic Negroni were particularly delightful. The wine list, curated by a dedicated sommelier, features a robust selection of Italian, French, and German labels.
While Torno Subito has potential, it falls short of Bottura’s usual excellence. Miami is home to a vibrant dining scene with discerning food lovers, and for this venture to succeed, improvements are necessary. The restaurant was nearly empty during my visit, though it was a Sunday night, which may have contributed. I appreciate the influx of celebrity chef ventures in Miami, but the most memorable experiences often come from local chefs cooking with passion and precision in their kitchens.
Happy dining,
Shanea
01/02/2025
