Iceland, with just 400,000 people, boasts Michelin-starred restaurants—an unexpected surprise in this remote, rugged island nation.
One of them is Moss, a fine dining restaurant set within Iceland’s most luxurious resort, The Retreat at the Blue Lagoon. Getting there is an experience in itself: a drive through a dramatic landscape of black lava rock—still fresh from the most recent eruption in November 2024. In fact, roadwork was still underway when we visited, a reminder of nature’s raw power. In this harsh terrain, nothing grows but algae and moss, hence the names of the resort’s two restaurants: Lava and Moss.
Dining at Moss is immersive. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame a lunar-like lava horizon. The sleek, minimalist interior, done in earthy tones and soft lighting, offers a calming contrast to the wild surroundings. The seven-course tasting menu is a creative tribute to Iceland’s changing seasons and pristine produce, presented in a series of artful, visually stunning dishes on beautiful ceramics.
Service was polished yet relaxed, striking that perfect balance.
We began with Arctic char and dip, followed by warm sourdough served with two oils and volcanic sea salt. The amuse-bouche set the tone for what was to come.
Moss’s head chef, Aggi Sverrisson, was born and raised in Iceland. After working abroad at a Michelin-starred restaurant, COVID brought him home, where he made Moss his culinary canvas. The restaurant earned its first Michelin star in 2023 and, in 2024, was named a Dom Pérignon Ambassador—the only chef in the Nordics to receive this honour. Naturally, we toasted the occasion with a glass of brut and a glass of rosé champagne.
A highlight was the gazpacho—bright with tomatoes, raw almonds, and basil. Then came summer vegetables from local farms in parmesan cream broth, with crisped parmesan and cheese bites.
Two fish courses followed: Arctic char with caviar, and an incredibly tender, buttery cod—both sourced from nearby waters. Then, of course, lamb. Did you know Iceland has more sheep than people? We enjoyed lamb throughout our travels, but none as expertly prepared as this: perfectly cooked, served with a parsnip purée and a rich jus.
Desserts were a playful tribute to Iceland’s terrain: chocolate resembling lava, pillowy madeleines, chocolate truffles, macarons, and licorice served atop moss and real lava rock. The grand finale was a showstopping nitrogen-frozen rose, cracked dramatically over a raspberry and chocolate mousse.
It was an extraordinary experience—fine dining at the edge of the world.
Moss seamlessly blends modern gastronomy with the island’s dramatic landscape. The wine list is equally impressive, with 900 labels and a 5,000-bottle cellar. In summer, the evening sun lingers late into the night, bathing the milky waters of the Blue Lagoon in golden light—a surreal backdrop to an unforgettable meal.
Highly recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
09/04/2025
