One of Toronto’s most celebrated restaurant teams, Zachary Kolomeir and Carmelina Imola, have launched a new venture:
N. L. Ginzburg. The duo is known for the acclaimed Dreyfus and Taverne Bernhardt. The name pays tribute to Natalia and Leone Ginzburg. They were iconic Jewish-Italian anti-fascist figures, deeply involved in Italy’s literary and political life during the fascist era. With Carmelina’s Italian heritage and Zachary’s Jewish roots, the concept blends the two traditions with warmth and personality.
The menu focuses on traditional Italian dishes with subtle Jewish touches, inspired by the simplicity and restraint of a slow-food trattoria. It reads beautifully, making it difficult to choose. From the antipasti, highlights included tuna crudo, a superb marinated eggplant with pesto, green beans with hazelnuts and ricotta salata, and a farm lettuce salad with young pecorino and pistachio—though the salad could have used a more assertive dressing.
From the primi selection of pastas and risotto, we chose ravioli with ricotta and chanterelles, enriched with black summer truffles from Chile for an extra $15. On a return visit, I might try the tagliatelle al ragù bianco di vitello or the risotto with artichokes and mint—though with the menu changing seasonally, there’s no guarantee they will be available.
In the secondi section, we sampled the cod, but there were also options such as rabbit, lamb, steak, and shrimp. The contorni offered about four vegetable sides, including grilled mushrooms with balsamic, beans in tomato sauce, and baked potatoes. The only obvious Jewish nod was the “mixed grill non-kasher,” which appeared to be three kinds of pork—a tongue-in-cheek joke. Overall, the kitchen leans toward legumes, vegetables, and simple preparations, and while they are not reinventing the wheel, they execute their vision well.
Desserts are limited to four choices. The biscotti is really a cookie plate with a mix of Italian
and Jewish selections; the rugalach, however, could use some refinement. There was also a strawberry crumble, a semolina custard (more like a cake) topped with wild blueberries, and gelato with apples—each offering a sweet, understated finish to the meal.
Located at 548 College Street, the dining room is dimly lit with terrazzo floors, vintage banquettes reminiscent of church pews, and an eclectic mix of Italian movie posters, religious paintings, and dog portraits. The palette is mostly monochromatic, with the exception of bright red shelving at the back. Soundproofing panels on the ceiling help somewhat, but the noise rises as the room fills—and it will fill, given its status as one of the city’s buzziest new spots.
The front bar offers wines not only from Italy, but also from Spain, France, Germany, Syria, and Canada, with many from small producers committed to organic practices. Bottles start at $70. Cocktails, priced at $18, include the Vesper, the Levi Collins (a playful Jewish reference), and the Bona Notti, a strawberry-infused gin creation.
Our server and assistant manager, Cassandra, was excellent. She noted that they are currently open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. There are plans to expand to seven days a week and eventually serve lunch. With Carmelina and Zachary’s proven touch, this new spot delivers not only good food but also a lively, convivial evening.
Happy dining,
Shanea
10/19/2025
