I recently had the pleasure of exploring Aquavit, a distinguished 2-star Michelin restaurant established in 1987, situated at 66E 55th Street in Manhattan. Admittedly, my choice was partially influenced by its prime location. Fine dining options in Midtown and the Upper East Side are relatively scarce, and being an uptown girl, Aquavit’s proximity on 55th between Park and Madison was a draw.
Originally helmed by the renowned chef Marcus Samuelson, Aquavit gained its Michelin acclaim for its innovative modern Nordic cuisine. Now under the leadership of Chef Emma Bengtsson, it’s refreshing to see a woman at the helm in a culinary world where female Michelin-starred chefs remain scarce.
Housed within a pink granite tower, Aquavit exudes understated elegance with an earthy palette, showcasing natural materials sourced from Scandinavia. The interior boasts wide planked oak floors, accentuating its Scandinavian charm. The exhibition kitchen, framed in large glass windows and doors, adds a touch of modernity. Denim blue hues adorn the half-moon banquets, while cream color tablecloths add to the formality. Ample street-facing windows flood the space with natural light. The waitstaff, clad in green aprons, white shirts, and ties, exude a formal yet approachable demeanor.
Despite the restaurant’s classic and minimalist aesthetic, the clientele presented an eclectic mix, ranging from older tourists, and business people to VERY casual-attired individuals seemingly oblivious to the two-star Michelin ambience-a juxtaposition that detracted from the dining experience.
Nevertheless, Aquavit welcomes solo diners with open arms- a rarity in New York’s dining scene. At lunchtime they offer a 2-course meal at $75, or a 3-course at $85. I opted for the 3-course culinary journey that had its highs and lows. The bread selection, regrettably, failed to impress, lacking the quality and selection of other Michelin restaurants.
For the first course, I selected the scallop rhubarb, a dish marred by overpowering acidity and salt levels, overshadowing the natural sweetness of the scallop. The Ora King Salmon, accompanied by English peas, snow peas, and a dill brown butter sauce, offered a more balanced flavour profile for my second course.
Delving into dessert, I indulged in the signature Arctic’s Bird Nest-a goat cheese parfait adorned with buckhorn and blueberries, delivering a harmonious blend of tartness, sweetness, and crunch. This was an additional $20 supplement and was a riff on this original classic Aquavit dessert.
I washed everything down with a stellar glass of Burgandy. The extensive wine list and cocktail offerings showcased Aquavit’s commitment to beverage excellence, with generous pours and a diverse selection catering to every palate. Service remained attentive yet unobtrusive throughout the meal. I was in and out in an hour but never felt rushed. How does New York know how to do this so well?
While not every dish soared to groundbreaking heights, Aquavit’s focus on well-executed Scandinavian cuisine, particularly with a focus on fish and seafood, left an impression. Despite minor inconsistencies, Aquavit remains a beacon of excellence in New York’s culinary landscape.
Happy dining,
Shanea
05/02/2024
