I have lost count of how many Mastro Restaurants there are, but somewhere in the neighborhood of 20. They are not all created equal, for instance, their Ft. Lauderdale location has an enviable spot on the intercostal, but the service is appalling and the food is not much better. So it was with trepidation that I ventured to their latest outpost at 315 S Biscayne Bay, situated right next door to Il Gabbiano, which offers captivating waterfront views. Boasting a spacious setting for 230 guests. The restaurant features floor-to-ceiling windows, with many that open out onto a terrace overlooking the water. Ascending an attractive staircase to the second floor, guests are greeted by a refined dining room adorned with glass sculptures and a striking Veuve champagne wall. Here, live music fills the air each evening in the lounge, complementing the ambiance set by white tablecloths and crystal chandeliers, and an attentive waitstaff dressed in white dinner jackets. Epitomized by our server, Chris. I thought it was strange to have carpet in the dining room as it would get dirty quickly.

Make sure to indulge in the bread service, a relative bargain at $5, where favourites like pretzel bread and pumpernickel raisin are readily replenished upon request. The menu showcases Mastro’s signature USDA prime steaks, aged for 28 days and cooked at 1,500 degrees, then served sizzling-hot on a buttered platter and heated to 450 degrees. The steaks were not the tastiest I’ve ever had and the temperature consistency may need refinement, but, you have to bear in mind this restaurant had only been open a month before my visit. There is also a large array of seafood and fish, with this location offering some new Miami additions, like Florida red snapper and raw bar offerings too. Some luxury items include their raw oysters topped with caviar, a caviar stuffed baked potato, or a lobster mashed potato for $55.

Generous portions encourage sharing, particularly the steaks that start at $61 and ascend in price to the extravagant Tomahawk at $250. There was a nice array of side dishes on offer, but caution against their over-salting many items. The extensive drink menu features bespoke cocktails, some with dramatic presentations, a curated wine list boasting over 500 varieties, and a selection of premium beers.

Save room for dessert, particularly the signature warm butter cake served with ice cream or the indulgent New York-style cheesecake. Despite minor shortcomings, Mastro’s Ocean Club was impressed with its lovely views, excellent service, and mostly satisfying cuisine, while not revolutionary, the restaurant’s winning formula ensures a solid meal and dining experience for those willing to splurge.

Happy dining,

Shanea

04/11/2024

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