When dining out in Miami, I typically head south and rarely venture north due to a select few restaurants that catch my interest in that direction. The Katherine has been on my radar for a couple of years, primarily because I’m a fan of its chef, Timon Balloo. As a three-time nominated James Beard Award nominee and semi-finalist in 2023. I was disappointed to see his previous restaurant Balloo, close during the pandemic. Chef Balloo initially worked with Chef Allen Suuser in Aventura and later at Azul in the Mandarin Oriental, where the cuisine was exceptional under Michelle Bernstein’a’s leadership. Afterward, he opened the still-operating and popular Sugarcane Restaurant in Midtown.
In 2022, Chef Balloo relocated and opened the Katherine, named after his wife, Marissa Katherine Balloo. The menu reflects their diverse experiences from their travels as well as their mixed heritages, featuring flavours including Chinese, Indian, and Trinidadian cuisines. Situated at 723 E Broward Blvd. in Ft. Lauderdale, The Katherine is a cozy yet bustling corner restaurant with ample parking in the rear. With seating for about 40 guests, patrons can choose between the bar, dining room, or the back patio. We opted for the latter due to the overly chilly air conditioning. Make sure you bring a warm sweater or two if dining inside. Interestingly, the cushions and pillows were handmade by family members.
The tantalizing menu tempted us to order many dishes. We started with the tuna crispy rice accompanied by a spicy mayo and sweet soy sauce, followed by a shrimp ceviche in a passion fruit soy with jalapeño, though I found the shrimp was slightly overcooked and tough. The whipped ricotta with oven-roasted tomatoes and aged balsamic, served with grilled bread, proved a better option. However, the highlight of the evening was undoubtedly the clam chowder French fries, a seemingly unusual combination, that worked wonders with perfectly crisp fries atop steamed clams in a delightful Old Bay sauce.
For the main course, we sampled the short rib orecchiette, the renowned red curry Branzino, served with coconut rice and green papaya slaw (a dish I fondly remember from Balloo), and a superb pan-seared sea bass atop a creamy polenta in a caper brown butter sauce. Dessert options include a chocolate pudding mousse with cocoa fudge syrup, but the standout was the vanilla bean “torrejas ” French toast with seasonal fruit compote and ice cream,
Regarding beverages, the bar offers a selection of wines and house cocktails made with sake, including a delightful Mojito (no license for hard liquor). They also serve sangria, a margarita, and a Negroni, all featuring sake. This globally inspired menu changes frequently, featuring seasonal ingredients. The Katherine’s menu is a personal reflection of the chef and his wife’s culinary journey.
Yelp recognized The Katherine as the best new restaurant in the United States in 2023, while the Miami Times awarded it the best new restaurant in Broward in 2022. These accolades are well deserved, and I will undoubtedly make the trip north again to indulge in the chef’s creations.
Recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
02/08/2024
