Sushi, as they say, is an art form where not all creations are equal. Tales of prestigious establishments in Tokyo such as Jiro, Sushi Saito, Sushi Sugita, and a myriad of others abound. Yet, these culinary journeys often come at a staggering cost, ranging from a $1,000 per person price tag and beyond. They are known for their brisk efficiency, typically only lasting 30-60 minutes, devoid of casual conversation or interaction, and adhering to strict dining protocols. The Japanese love their rules. It was under these conditions that I decided to wait for an opportunity to explore the world of sushi in Kanazawa.
Kanazawa, where the warmth of the East Sea and the chill of the Sea of Japan converge, boasts a unique confluence of diverse marine life, from fish to crustaceans and mollusks, drawn together for migration and breeding- and ultimately, for the enjoyment of people. Here, the Kanazawa port regions reign supreme in the art of dragnet fishing, many of the catches exclusive to these waters. What the chef can’t find there he finds at the Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. It was, therefore, the perfect stage to embark on a sushi adventure.
Among the whispers and recommendations, one name stood out Otome, often likened to the legendary Jiro of Tokyo. Securing a reservation here proved a challenge, but when a 5pm slot opened up, I seized the opportunity to, and I’m thrilled to say that I did. Chef Jazuhiko Tsurumi, a Michelin Chef-starred maestro with over 50 years of experience, introduced me to the freshest and most extraordinary fish I’ve ever tasted.
Finding the restaurant was not an easy task; tucked away in a labyrinth of alleys and streets with no English signage. We relied on the kindness of strangers to lead us in the right direction, and they were right about how fortunate we were to dine there. The restaurant exuded an old-world, historic charm. The dark wood interiors, traditional lattice paper sliding doors, and the ambiance transported me to another time.
Despite the quality of the fare, Otome offered a reasonably priced dining experience. The chef’s meticulous attention to detail (the complete opposite of Kyubey) even extended to the rice, crafted with pristine water from Mount Hakusan. Each piece of sushi, harmoniously balanced, seemed to melt in my mouth. The chef also recommended a local sake to complement the meal.
The omakase experience showcased an array of fish, some of which I have never encountered before. Grouper, maguro, various types of tuna, squid, the sweetest shrimp, sea perch, incredibly fresh sea urchin, and some unfamiliar yet delectable fish all astounded my palate. The chef’s judicious use of freshly grated wasabi elevated each bite.
The experience extended beyond sushi, featuring sashimi, crab, baked and grilled fish. Marked by a bowl of miso soup, was the conclusion. A noteworthy aspect was the presence of a female sous chef, a rarity in this patriarchal society. 
Our entire culinary journey spanned a delightful 90 minutes, and as the time elapsed, we reluctantly vacated our seats, making way for the next group. The restaurant operates on a two-seating schedule, at 5pm and 7pm. Although the chef’s English proficiency was limited, his warmth and friendliness transcended language barriers.
The most astonishing thing was the price; dinner for two came to $390 Canadian, an incredible value for a meal of this caliber. The evening at Otome was nothing short of unforgettable. It encapsulated the essence of my time in Kanazawa, showcasing the best this enchanting city had to offer.
Highly recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
11/26/2023
