Bar Prima, the latest addition to Toronto’s dining landscape, is a culinary gem situated at 1136 Queen Street West, beside the Drake Hotel. It is run by esteemed chefs Craig Harding and Julian D’Ippoloto, renowned for their restaurant Le Palma. This new venue boasts chef de cuisine Nicholas Laboni, previously of Osteria La Buca and a pivotal force in the launch of Sean Macdonald’s Bar Monette in Santa Monica. Toronto is truly fortunate to have Laboni back in Toronto.
Specializing in elevated Italian cuisine, Bar Prima isn’t just your typical neighborhood eatery. Considerable attention and resources have been dedicated to its design, crafted by Future Studio. Look for the distinct Murano imported glass blocks adorning the entrance, guiding patrons into this 75-seat establishment spread across two floors.
The main floor exudes an air of glamour, adorned with striking blue leathers, mahogany wood finishes, a magnificent domed gold leaf ceiling, and marble floors inspired by a 1968 Vogue magazine spread featuring American artist Cy Twombly’s Rome apartment. Despite the elegance of white tablecloths, exquisite crystal glassware, and beautiful dishware, the ambiance remains inviting and far from pretentious. As night falls, the dim, vintage 1960s and 70s-inspired lighting infuses the space with a timeless allure, complemented by an array of vintage artifacts, even presenting the bill in an antique cigarette case, echoing the idea of reviving another era.
Descend downstairs to a more intimate setting, tastefully designed, even extending its unique touch to the individual bathroom designs. The staff elegantly dressed in white aprons and black ties and the barmen in white jackets very reminiscent of Cipriani. I enjoyed the restaurant’s excellent curated playlist.
The culinary experience at Bar Prima is a delightful fusion of classic Italian dishes with contemporary twists. For instance, the Caprese salad is reimagined with roasted beets instead of fresh tomatoes, drizzled with a Madiera wine glaze, and basil oil atop buffalo mozzarella discs, while the take on Oysters Rockefeller features plump, barely cooked scallops. The pasta offerings offer great highlights like the indulgent tagliatelle bambina, which I enhanced by adding white truffles. Even better, was the lobster diavola, spaghetti with large tender chunks of lobster in a sauce of juicy tomatoes and fiery chili flakes, a perfect topping.
The mains showcase a variety of delectable options, from sea bass to veal chops to ribeye and beyond. Noteworthy cocktails from the bar, such as the exemplary Negroni, complement the classic Italian labels and an extensive selection of wines from Europe and beyond, including natural wines. There is also a Corvain wine preservation system.
Bar Prima excels not only in savory offerings but also in the realm of desserts, debunking the notion that Italian desserts are an afterthought. Their dessert selection is an exquisite finale to the meal, featuring the likes of Prima cheesecake, a cross between a New York-style cheesecake and a Basque cheesecake. But for me, the apple crostata with triple cream cheese, olive oil ice cream, and a sprinkle of Malden salt was a nostalgic yet elevated treat.
Bar Prima‘s commitment to offering refined Italian classics marks a delightful and sophisticated addition to Toronto’s flourishing dining scene.
Recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
11/12/2023