El Cielo by Michelin star chef Juan Manuel Barrientos, renowned for his culinary mastery showcased in his restaurants across Miami, Washington, and South America, captivates diners with his menus deeply rooted in Latin American flavours, influenced by his Colombian heritage, and elevated through his use of molecular gastronomy techniques. Having been a devoted fan of his Brickell restaurant, my anticipation was high as I ventured to experience his latest culinary venture located at 1701 Collins Avenue in the SLS South Beach, taking over the esteemed space formerly helmed by Michelin-starred chef, Jose Andres.
However, my enthusiasm was quickly dampened by a series of disappointing observations. The initial encounter with a seemingly discourteous host, coupled with a lack of attention and a distinct lack of eye contact, set an off-putting tone. The decor was unchanged from its previous incarnation and was a little less for the wear and tear, marked by stained carpets, and failed to live up to the standards I was expecting.
The evening continued with the promise of a delightful journey, yet was marred by a crescendo of disappointments. The music, initially pleasant, grew unbearably loud as the night unfolded. The option of an 11-course, $150 tasting menu or a la carte presented a dilemma, and I opted for the latter, a decision I was grateful for considering the agonizingly slow service. While one might be forgiving of teething issues in a newly opened establishment, the four months under its belt left no room for excuses.
The cuisine which held promise on the menu, fell short in execution. Dishes like the yuca gnocchi with truffle and sweet plantain honey arrived cold. The ribs in guava and tamarind failed to impress, and the Tree of Life, his signature bread course had a smoky flavour that I did not enjoy, whereas I loved it at his Brickell location. The majority of what we ordered did not leave a lasting impression, contributing to a lackluster dining experience.
As the evening unfolded, the shortcomings extended to the bar, where two poorly crafted cocktails remained untouched on the table without inquiry from the server. The meringue dessert proved to be equally awful, prompting us to leave it behind without any acknowledgment from the staff.
It is disheartening to witness a chef of Chef Barrientos’ caliber attaching his name brand to an establishment that falls short of the excellence he is known for. It leaves me with a regrettable conclusion that this will be my last visit.
Not recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
12/31/2023
