Have you ever ventured into a restaurant with modest expectations fueled by less-than-flattering comments? You brace yourself for a subpar experience, only to be pleasantly surprised by a eureka moment. Such was my experience at the recently opened Rao’s Miami, residing at 1601 Collins Avenue within the St. Moritz building, part of the expansive Loews Hotel complex.
For those familiar with North American cuisine, the name Rao’s is likely to ring a bell. Originating in East Harlem, in 1896, Rao’s holds the distinction of being one of the oldest continuously operating restaurants in the city. Renowned for its southern Italian classics- or what I affectionately term Italian-American cuisine. Rao’s has achieved legendary status. Securing a reservation is notoriously challenging, given its intimate 10-table capacity. Tables are usually frequented by loyal patrons who extend invitations or occasionally sell a table for the night. The allure lies not just in the cuisine but more in the vibe and exclusivity. The Miami outpost, with its 150-seat capacity, offers a better chance of availability. Although, it’s still a little tricky to secure a reservation.
Stepping into Rao’s Miami is like stepping back in time, with a sophisticated dinner club ambiance, white tablecloths, green banquets, burgundy chairs, and waitstaff captains donning white jackets and black bow ties. Autographed celebrity photos line the walls, and the soundtrack plays the likes of Sinat,ra, Tony Bennett, Sammy Davis Junior, Bobby Darin, and Dean Martin. For a privileged few there is a VIP room (for regulars and celebrities) that is occasionally open to ‘us’ ordinary patrons.
The menu is similar to the New York City classics with a few new Miami offerings. Following the advice to stick with signature dishes rather than opting for a steak, I indulged in the must-order meatballs, generously sized and bathed in a delectable red sauce. The seafood salad was slightly overcooked but showcased a large assortment of shrimp, crab, and squid. Venturing into another signature territory, we went with the veal Parmesan, substantial enough to satisfy three hungry diners. It evoked nostalgic memories despite my non-Italian background.
If you want to venture off the recommendations there is a raw bar, antipasti, soups, pasta, steaks, and chops.
Specialty cocktails, mocktails, and an array of beers cater to diverse preferences. The wine selection was a highlight, featuring an extensive wine list with a focus on Italian wines, complemented by French, American, and global choices across various price points. There was also a notable by the glass selection. Bubble enthusiasts and big spenders will find an ample selection, including large format choices.
Dessert brought the perfect conclusion, with a recommended peanut butter tart- a heavenly blend of light peanut butter mousse on a graham cracker crust, crowned with a luscious chocolate ganache.
In the end, Rao’s exceeded my initial expectations. It is a testament to timeless, old-school Italian charm, and the fact that it has found a home within the Loew’s Hotel was a big coup. Perhaps, as the saying goes, “someone must have made them an offer they couldn’t refuse.”
Happy dining,
Shanea
12/28/2023
