I have been fortunate to dine at several Michelin-starred restaurants throughout my life, but not all of them have met my expectations. One notable example of this is L’Effervescence in Tokyo. Despite its impressive accolades of 3 Michelin stars and a green star for sustainability, I must admit that I have experienced more delicious meals at one and two-star establishments in Japan and elsewhere. I find myself somewhat perplexed by the high rating bestowed upon this restaurant. L’Effervescence, under the guidance of executive chef Shinobu Namae, offers a 12-course tasting menu that heavily emphasizes a connection to both the land and sea, drawing influences from French culinary traditions.
The 40-seat restaurant exuded sophistication and had a calm, minimalist ambiance. Dark woods, earthy tones, well-spaced linen-covered tables, and dim lighting created a serene atmosphere. Touches of greenery and a large window overlooking a garden added to the overall aesthetic. The large, well-spaced tables were complimented by beautiful dishware and appropriate glassware. The service was impeccable. However, despite the impressive setting, the food fell short of being memorable.
The evening began positively with a welcome cocktail prepared table-side, accompanied by a silver flask of vegetable crisps. A unique and enjoyable touch was the presentation of a tray of Japanese knives, allowing guests to select one for their dinner service. The bread course, however, was unusual, featuring two types of bread. A greasy, cold focaccia arrived in a cast iron skillet, which you would think it would be warm out of the oven, and a mediocre sourdough bread.
The most memorable dish of the evening was a salad boasting 57 different vegetables and greens. It was thoughtfully presented with a card that indicated the origin of each ingredient from various farms across Japan. Each course had evocative names like Circle of Life, Genesis of Civilization, Fixed Point, Ocean, Forest, and so on.
Unfortunately, not all dishes lived up to expectations. The duck course was served almost raw, rendering it extremely tough chewy, and difficult to swallow. The cheese course was disappointingly minuscule. The signature turnip course was unimpressive, and tasted like, well, like a turnip. Desserts displayed inconsistency in both quality and taste. Some of the explanations provided by the server were difficult to understand, prompting moments of laughter and confusion us.
The restroom experience also left much to be desired, as the area had a musty smell. The use of candles to try and mask the odor indicated a potential issue with the restaurant’s hygiene maintenance.
There was an extensive and expensive wine list as well as alcoholic and non-alcoholic pairings. However, the food did not live up to the restaurant’s three-star reputation. While the plating was visually appealing for the most part, it failed to impress our taste buds. When spending an astronomical amount for dinner, one expects a flawless meal with exceptional flavours. While the restaurant had its merits, it ultimately fell short of delivering a truly extraordinary dining experience.
Happy dining,
Shanea
11/05/2023
