Kyoto, once the regal capital of Japan, stands as an epitome of cultural richness, with its array of temples, shrines, and meticulously crafted gardens harmoniously nestled among traditional and historic wooden dwellings. In Kyoto, formal traditions hold sway, and at the forefront is the exquisite kaiseki dining, a Japanese equivalent of haute cuisine. This culinary tradition unfolds in a painstakingly orchestrated series of courses, including appetizers, sashimi, simmered delicacies, grilled offerings, and steamed dishes, with the chef granted the creative freedom to introduce additional courses. Amid our Kyoto sojourn, we savoured the quintessential kaiseki experience on several occasions. We also found some of the meals lovely and some unappetizing. That is why we looked forward to trying Lurra, a one-star Michelin restaurant that makes a modern interpretation of this cuisine all the more tantalizing for me.
Lurra is a name that resonates with “earth and moon”, and captures the essence of coordination and harmony. This restaurant is a tribute to the unique local ingredients of Kyoto and a global culinary palette. Their mission transcends conventional culinary boundaries, weaving innovation, tradition, and reverence for nature into every dish. St the helm is executive chef Jacob Keat, a Californian, whose culinary journey has spanned Tokyo, where he lived for a while, to stints at culinary meccas of Noma in Copenhagen as well as Noma Tokyo. He has commanded the kitchen of a prestigious 3-star Michelin restaurant in New Zealand as well. Lurra unfolds its culinary narrative within a beautifully restored 250-year-old townhouse, nestled amidst Kyoto’s historic streets and meandering waterways. With a mere ten counter-seats encircling an open kitchen, the ambiance exudes intimacy and exclusivity.
Conceived by a trio of dedicated colleagues, the choice of this locale was deliberate, offering unfettered access to the region’s abundant fresh, seasonal ingredients. Furthermore, they saw Kyoto as the crucible of Japanese artistic heritage, culture, and craftsmanship, as the perfect canvas to convey their artistic interpretation to the world. Lurra’s culinary creations bear testament to this vision, prepared over firewood, incorporating fermented elements, smoked delicacies, and exotic spices gathered from the far reaches of the globe. The result is an inspiring 12-course dinner that defies convention and stands as a culinary masterpiece.
Takumi Mryashita, serving as both manager and seasoned sommelier, brings his expertise gained from distinguished establishments, to enhance the dining experience. Mixologist Yusuke Sakabe excels in crafting extraordinary drinks and cocktails, further elevating the restaurant’s distinctive culinary identity. Together, they have woven an innovative and imaginative tapestry of flavours. Lurra offers the choice of expertly curated wine pairing or a non-alcoholic alternative, both of which are masterfully done. As someone who traditionally eschews pairings, I was taken aback by the sheer excellence of the libations. Lurra is a novel approach to Kyoto’s culinary traditions, it emerges as a trailblazer, redefining the essence of dining in this storied city.
The menu was a captivating fusion of Italian, Japanese, and Scandinavian culinary influences. Each meticulously crafted course was not only a feast for the palate but also a visual masterpiece. The offerings ranged from delectable delights such as Mille Feuille with aged ham and black truffle to the elegant harmony of smoked field caviar with strip bonito and Asian pears. A Halloween-themed presentation that left a lasting impression featured a butternut squash dumpling, accented by pumpkin seeds and roasted kombu. Another exceptional creation that stood out was the enoki mushroom dish, perfectly complemented by a flavorful “tasty paste” and the earthy richness of black truffle. You would swear you were eating a wagyu steak. The menu predominantly leaned towards a vegetable-centric approach, though it didn’t skimp on protein. Admitting the botanical delights, there were also impeccable fish and seafood courses. The evening unfolded as an engaging and interactive affair, with the entire kitchen team sharing their passion and warmth, and diners forming connections with one another: later, we were gracefully ushered to a communal dining table at the front of the house, where we indulged in three sumptuous desserts, accompanied by another expertly paired beverage. Without a doubt, this was the pinnacle of our dining experience in Kyoto.
I must extend my heartfelt gratitude to chef Ian Robinson, formerly of the now-closed Skippa restaurant in Toronto, who now resides and works in Japan at the world-renowned Den restaurant, for his outstanding recommendation, which led us to this unique culinary journey where every bite was an exquisite fusion of freshness and excitement. I wholeheartedly endorse this exceptional dining experience, a true gem in Kyoto’s culinary landscape.
Highly recommended.
Happy dining,
Shanea
12/03/2023
